The Great Pumpkin Dessert Hunt — 6 Treats (Ranked)
My guess is that most of you have already penciled in pumpkin pie on your Thanksgiving menu — more likely written it in pen, or if you’re like my family, had it engraved. So this week I’m taking a look at the broader spectrum of pumpkin desserts, ones that have actual pumpkin in them, not just pumpkin spice. I opted to feature independent bakeries as a contrast to the chain grocery stores I showcased in my column on apple pies a month ago. I called around to several places and was surprised that many did not have pumpkin offerings. And of the bakeries that did, only one had a variety. That turned out to be HaleLife, a vegan establishment. We went out on a recent afternoon and picked up goodies at four places, then brought them back to the FFF Lab + Photo Studio™, which also serves as our home. LA SEGUNDA BAKERY CAFE Pumpkin Muffin I called ahead and talked to Blue, who graciously set aside one of these, La Segunda’s only pumpkin treat (on this day). A formidable muffin, for sure — spot-on density; not dry, not crumbly, no quite moist enough; sweet but not overly so, with a pumpkin flavor that was more subtle than powerful. The hefty sugar crystals on top provided that familiar sweet, crunchy start. La Segunda has three other locations in Tampa and Ybor City. CASSIS MARKET Pumpkin Cookie Cassis does terrific cookies. Its chocolate chip is epic. This pumpkin model — I bought two — didn’t achieve that level, but it had all the earmarks of a solid treat. For starters, they were big. Another flavor joined the pumpkin, and I’m sorry but my taste buds aren’t fine-tuned enough to definitively tell you what. The combination worked, although these dense slabs could’ve been more moist. MAMA G’S GERMAN BAKERY & COFFEEHOUSE Pumpkin Danish Mmmmm. The flaky crust was the ideal intro to the lush pumpkin-pie-like filling in the middle. I made quick work of this delicate confection. I should’ve gotten a couple. Mama G’s has two locations in St. Pete and two in Sarasota. HALELIFE BAKERY Pumpkin Smores Cupcake, Pumpkin Cheesecake Donut, Pumpkin Chai Snickerdoodle Cookie I’m (obviously) not a vegan, which puts Halelife at something of a disadvantage. Jackie, the head pastry chef, served us at the counter, and told us that it takes a lot of care and imagination to make desserts without eggs, butter or milk products that “don’t taste like crap.” She absolutely succeeds. Her pumpkin confections sure had creative names. I’m not a cupcake fan, but I bought this one because it wasn’t brown. It surprised me with its blend of flavors and the big helping of cream that ran down into the middle and was criss-crossed with chocolate on top. I didn’t taste a whole lot of pumpkin, but it didn’t matter. The Pumpkin Cheesecake Donut had a thick glaze on top and cream in the middle. It was grainier than your everyday donut, and I didn’t detect much cheesecake flavor, but that didn’t matter either. The big cookie — my first ever snickerdoodle — was on par with a lot of conventional (non-vegan) cookies I’ve had. It was agreeably crumbly, had a balanced sweetness, and an earthy pumpkin flavor. I don’t what chai tastes like, so no comment. HaleLife has locations in north St. Pete and South Tampa. Now We Rank Our Pumpkin Desserts … 1 — Pumpkin Danish, Mama G’s 2 — Pumpkin Cookie, Cassis 3 — Pumpkin Chai Snickerdoodle Cookie, HaleLife 4 — Pumpkin Muffin — La Segunda 5 — Pumpkin Smores Cupcake, HaleLife 6 — Pumpkin Cheesecake Donut, HaleLife Take these rankings with a grain of … salt. I liked all of them, and would gladly eat each one outside the purview of Friday Food Fight. A Final Note: Most of you know this, but just in case — independent bakeries, unlike grocery chains, tend to change their offerings frequently, often by the day. So it’s best to call ahead to see what’s available — pumpkin or otherwise.
Chain vs. Local in a Thanksgiving Sandwich Skirmish
Thanksgiving’s still a couple weeks off, but you’re starting to taste it, right? Salivating in anticipation of the carved turkey and all those sides, especially the stuffing. Stuffing is what I live for this time of year. And gravy. My Thanksgiving dinner plates look like gravy bogs. Then, mmmm, leftovers. Sandwiches made of leftovers. It came to my attention a couple years ago that I don’t have to wait until the day after Thansgiving to eat a sandwich that includes turkey and stuffing, that I can get one at a restaurant — ahead of time. So this year I started looking in earnest. It took some doing, but I found a couple places: Firehouse Subs, a chain; and Brooklyn South, a tiny eatery in St. Pete’s Edge District. But wait. Would indulging in these pre-Thanskgiving sandwiches undermine the sanctity of leftovers two weeks hence? Would it somehow diminish them? This was a risk I was willing to take. Most of these specialty sandwiches feature cranberry sauce or some derivation of the fruit. I avoid cranberry like I do root canals. We brought the sandwiches back to the FFF Lab + Photo Studio™ and photographed them on a silver platter to afford them the proper dignity. FIREHOUSE SUBS Appearance I got the 8-inch sub ($12.62) rather than the 4-inch (whuh?) or 12-inch. At first it was a little odd to see the sacred post-Thanksgiving sandwich on a sub roll. But that didn’t last. It was too tempting to the eyes. The package also came with a wonderful add-on. Gravy. Let’s add punctuation. Gravy! In a styrofoam container. I asked for the cranberry sauce on the side, figuring I’d at least sample it. Taste and Texture The sub roll turned out to be just fine. It was soft and airy, and quickly compressed, making for easy bites — more of a basic housing than a vital ingredient. The sandwich ate neatly. It had carved white-meat turkey rather than deli-style, surprising for a sub shop. My biggest concern was the stuffing. Could a chain with a dozen locations in Tampa Bay put out a credible rendition? Yes it could. The stuff was moist and well-seasoned, traditional but with its own character. My second biggest concern was the gravy. Firehouse made the grade here, too. It was thick but not gloppy, flavorful but not too rich, and there was plenty of it. Ideal for dipping the sandwich. The crimson cranberry sauce had the consistency of jam. I took one small dip for thoroughness sake and dipped out. BROOKLYN SOUTH Brooklyn South is a mom ‘n’ pop shop, the kind of place that just might run out of certain offerings if its getting late. With that in mind, I called a couple of times in advance to make sure the sandwich was available. Karen, one of the owners, assured me they had the goods to make me a Day After Thanksgiving sandwich ($15). I popped in, paid and was back in the car in two minutes. Appearance Brooklyn South’s wrinkle was making its beast of a Thanksgiving sandwich with ciabatta bread. It contained deli turkey, a slight concern. Taste and Texture The ciabatta proved to be a major asset — a nice exterior crust leading to dense bread, then into the jackpot stuff. More than a mere housing. That the pile of turkey was deli-style hardly made a difference. Did it have the magic of the slices and pieces from Thanksgiving dinner? Of course not. But neither did the carved version at Firehouse. The stuffing had that comforting texture but its flavor could’ve been more pronounced. Brooklyn South’s sandwich features a cranberry-flavored cheese. After some chin-scratching, I okayed it but asked Karen to go easy. The cheese added a whisper of tang. And the Winner of the Thanksgiving Sandwich Skirmish Is … Brooklyn South’s Day After Thanksgiving Sandwich — with Firehouse Subs Gravy. Okay, so — yeah, that’s a cheat. But I’m sticking with it. One final observation about my first experience with restaurant Thanksgiving Sandwiches: There were no leftovers.
Beer Here! 4 Drafts at 4 Craft Breweries (Ranked)
I recall when craft breweries used to be hip — when the local scene was nascent and a handful of tasting rooms became go-to hangs for zythophiles. Remember when a crowd of 6,000 beer geeks in Tampa turned unruly during the release party for a coveted, limited-edition beer? I don’t often hit craft breweries anymore, but if our outing last Saturday was any indication, those boho days are well behind us. Local breweries look more like family parks than gathering spots for guys with long beards and beanies (except for the brewers themselves). The plan on Saturday was for me to drink a signature golden beer (lager, light ale or pilsner) at four breweries in St. Pete, hopping from one to the next. Bonnie, Vicki and David could have whatever they were having. Our stops were: 3 Daughters Brewing, Cage Brewing, Green Bench Brewing Company and Golden Isles Brewing Co. Do not expect punctilious zythological analysis forthcoming. I’m no beer snob — just a fella who always has bottles of Bud Light in the garage fridge and likes to drink local drafts, usually in restaurants. 3 DAUGHTERS (5 p.m.) Located in a converted warehouse in the Warehouse Arts District, the 3 Daughters complex also includes a large outdoor space with tables, chairs, cornhole and other games. Don and Linda met our quartet on a gorgeous, perfectly cloudless late afternoon. The place was just starting to get busy. Kids and dogs were in abundance. I ordered a pint of Beach Blonde Ale, which I’ve had many times, at the indoor bar. We convened outside to a circle of Adirondack chairs, which I’m fond of sitting in because they promote relaxation and they go well with drinking beer. I took a focused swallow and was immediately struck by how bold Beach Blonde is compared to my Bud Light. I knew it had some punch, but on other occasions I was probably too busy yapping to notice how much. Flavor — what a concept! The pint started to flag near the end. It could’ve used more staying power. CAGE BREWING (6 p.m.) Located on the busy corner of 1st Avenue South and 20th Street, Cage has a large outdoor courtyard covered in artificial turf. If it wasn’t for all the young adults socializing over libations, Cage could’ve passed for a particularly busy daycare center. Kids aplenty — most under age 5 — frolicked and squealed and ran around. I found this scene a bit of a surprise, seeing as Cage is known as the local haven for Grateful Dead tribute acts and associated Deadheads. I ordered a pint of C.B.R. American-style lager ($6) at the indoor bar. Bobby J bought the round. We joined three generations of the Jorgensen clan outside. (Raff, 3 months, chilled in his stroller — smiled if I poked his belly, never cried.) The beer had a crispy start, but lost its head in about 30 seconds, then lost its carbonation and was soon uncrispy. I left about a quarter of it in the glass after David had a splendid idea … DINNER BREAK (7 p.m.) … Vicki and David bade farewell. Bonnie and I forged on. GREEN BENCH BREWING (8:15) Located on a side street just north of Central Avenue in the Edge District, Green Bench’s lighted sign and brick exterior exuded an urban vibe. I’d go so far as to say it looked … hip. Somewhat miraculously, we pulled into a parking spot directly across the street from the place. The crowd was adult and fairly sparse, the music on low volume. Green Bench Brewing was calm. I commiserated with a woman behind the bar about what golden beer would best serve my purposes. She gave me three samples and I decided on the Postcard Pils (10 oz. $7.54), an American pilsner. We had a seat next to the open garage door and enjoyed the crisp night air. Resting in its sleek, logo-inscripted glass, the beer looked positively elegant. Much of the head dissipated quickly, but some remained. I could see bubbles. Postcard Pils had a touch of agreeable hoppiness (this from someone with low hops threshold). It added bite to an overall smooth-drinking beer. GOLDEN ISLE BREWING (9:30) Golden Isle opened at MLK Street and 30th Avenue North in May 2023. We’d driven by it many times but had never been. After briefly debating whether to stop or head home, we pulled into the lot. The converted gas station has an adjacent fenced courtyard. As soon as I walked inside, I felt a welcoming vibe. I told our bartenders —Karah and Kristen, both delightful — about my golden-beer hunt and we immediately got down to business picking out a type. Although only modestly buzzed, I was pretty beer’d out. They welcomed the challenge. I tried a few samples and chose the Golden Pilsner (10 oz., $5.25). More bubbles — floating upward. I was charmed by the first sip and enthusiastically drank the silky, fresh-tasting elixir amid lively conversations with the women behind the bar. It shook me out of my beer fatigue, and I briefly considered getting a second glass, but decided against it. We set out for home — Bonnie driving, as always. Onto the Rankings … 1 — Golden Pilser, Golden Isle 2 — Postcard Pils, Green Bench 3 — Beach Blonde Ale, 3 Daughters 4 — C.B.R., Cage Brewing My beer excursion was fun and flavorful, although I doubt I’ll engage in another any time soon. I’ll visit my craft breweries one at a time, thank you — and my next time will be Golden Isle. A Final Tip: If the point of a beer excursion is not to get hammered but to appreciate the beer, it’s probably best to order the 10-oz. pours. A Final Geek Thought: I repeatedly clicked on “Save Draft” while composing this column in WordPress, and it wasn’t until near the end that I made the connection.
Arepa Altercation: Two Versions of Venezuala’s Native Sandwich
Shame on me for sleeping on arepa this long. Seeing as you may have been snoozing as well, allow me to briefly describe this Venezuelan street-food staple: It’s a round, flat, thick(ish) corn cake, most often served as a wrap for sandwiches, with fillings that run a wide gamut: shredded beef, shredded chicken, roast pork, black beans, cheeses, eggs for breakfast versions, and plenty more. Prior to this week’s FFF, I’d never heard of arepa, let alone eaten it. That added a sense of discovery to our outings. We chose two small Venezuelan restaurants. The first was 11 Chicks Yummy Creations on the northern edge of downtown St. Pete. When we turned up at Alma Llanera Venezuelan Food in Pinellas Park at 5:30 Wednesday, a hand-written sign on the door read “Closed due to plumbing problems.” That required a course correction, so we hit 1Chick 1Bro Cafe Bistro in Gulfport the following afternoon. 11 CHICKS YUMMY CREATIONS We arrived at this cute place on the corner of MLK Street and 2nd Avenue North at 1:15 Tuesday with the sun shining through puffy clouds. It was about 80 degrees, still a bit too warm and bright to eat al fresco. Inside the small space, we sat at a two-top — one of a half-dozen — next to the open front door. A man working the counter handed us each a laminated menu. A woman hustled in the kitchen. We ordered two arepas: Asada (shredded beef, cheese, bacon, etc., $12.76) and Bao (Asian-style pork, spinach, $11.70) and I got a house-made Mango Juice ($4.95). The wait for the food — about a half-hour according to the time stamps on my photos — started to test my patience. Appearance The arepas arrived in Styrofoam containers, with the arepa itself split and stuffed to bursting. Both looked tantalizing, but the Bao was prettier, with its spinach leaves peaking out. The sandwiches were foil-wrapped in keeping with street-food tradition. Taste and Texture Yep, these were some yummy creations. Let’s start with the arepa itself. I became an instant fan. The corn cake’s gentle crust gave way to the doughy innards, but it didn’t crumble. The corn flavor was present but not overpowering. As far as fillings, the Asada had more going on. The shredded beef, generously portioned, was chewy but not tough, and fell halfway between dry and moist. (This was not a drippy sandwich.) The shredded cheese vanished quickly, some in my mouth, some in front of me (but not, thankfully, in my lap). I didn’t taste bacon, but I’ll take the restaurant’s word for it. The Bao featured pork chunks that were impressively tender. I didn’t catch much in the way of Asian flavor, but that was okay. The spinach proved an ideal partner. The mango juice came in a standard Styrofoam cup. Enhanced by cane sugar, the drink was thick and lovely. On suggestion: Beef up the napkins. The small, thin paper ones didn’t make the grade with sandwiches that are inherently messy. 1Chick 1Bro Cafe Bistro Basking in the first legit cool front of the season, we arrived at 1 Chick 1 Bro at 1:15 Thursday under azure skies, with dry air about 75 degrees. Ahhhhh. The restaurant occupies a funky, standalone building on a weathered stretch of 49th Street on the eastern fringe of Gulfport. Xiomaira, who owns the place with her brother Henry, was behind the counter. She was gracious and chatty, and gladly answered our questions, including a tutorial on how to pronounce her name: See-yo-My-Da (I hope I got it right). We ordered the trio of Mini Arepas (two chicken, one pork, $12.50) and a full-sized Pabellon (shredded beef, black beans, plantains, cheese and avocado, $13.99). I ordered a Mango fruit drink ($4.50) for comparison’s sake. I wasn’t surprised to discover that 1Chick 1 Bro has a familial relationship with 11Chicks — one that involves siblings and is a bit too complicated to break down here. Appearance Just like the menu described — the three little ones on a plate, the Pabellon in foil inside a Styrofoam container. The meals reached our table in a few minutes. Taste and Texture The arepa itself was nearly identical to the version at 11 Chicks — expected, given the family connection — but with a smidge less corn flavor. Pabellon: The beef was moist and easy to chew; the black beans and avocado added welcome flavor and textural dimensions. If you put a plate of plantains in front of me, I’d push it away, but I liked it when nestled inside this arepa. It added a dose of sweetness. The arepa broke apart after a bit, which led to a messy affair. I was too busy mmmmm‘ing to care. The mini-arepas made for more tidy consumption, and they traded the complexity found in the Pabellon for elegant simplicity. The chicken (Bonnie’s fave) was juicy and scrumptuous; the pork (my favorite) was similarly juicy, but had crispy ends. Now that’s kitchen finesse. The mango juice was thicker than that of 11 Chicks. The napkins were too skimpy. And the Winner of the Arepa Altercation Is … 1Chick 1 Bro Cafe Bistro. I tried to avoid doing a Food Fight featuring restaurants with family ties, but with Alma Llanera closed, and with one day before publication, I was left little choice. So I manned up and made my decision. As we’re wont to say here at HQ, there are no losers in Friday Food Fight. I’d gladly eat again at both places, and probably will.
Groovy Peruvian—Two Takes on Lomo Saltado, the National Dish
For my first foray into Peruvian food, I wanted to find something regarded as the country’s “national dish” — that’s not ceviche. Nothing against ceviche, but I’ve featured it in FFF before (and likely will again). The AI machine led me to Lomo Saltado, a beef stir-fry that represents a cooking style called “chifa,” a Peruvian-Chinese fusion that emerged in the 19th century with the arrival of Chinese immigrants. My two contestants are: La Mordida in Clearwater and Alpa Peruvian Cuisine in St. Pete. LA MORDIDA La Mordida (“the Bite”) sits in a strip center wedged into the junction of U.S. 19 and 66th Street. We arrived at 6:30 on Tuesday under brilliantly sunny skies. Inside, the large space was bright, crammed with tables and festooned with colorful streamers and other Latin-American signifiers. The wall near the door had a shrine that included a picture of the halo’d, straight-haired Jesus, with candles beneath, next to a gilded image of the Virgin Mary. If we’d seen it upon entry, we would’ve crossed ourselves. Uptempo Latin music played (a bit too loudly), accompanied by videos on a projection screen. The overall effect was … festive. Our server, Santiago, was gracious and eager to please (I introduced myself and he thrust out his hand, which I shook). La Mordida offers dishes that are specifically Peruvian and Colombian. We ordered Lomo Saltado ($18) to split and tried something new as an appetizer: Causa de Pollo ($12). Appearance Love your starches? Lomo Saltado includes both French fries and rice. In something of a scandalous twist, the beef strips, tomatoes and onions were placed over the fries instead of the rice. All told, the dish looked yum. Taste and Texture The first and most important criterion: Was the beef tender, or at least not chewy? Yes — not quite fork-cut tender tender, but easy on the jaws. The brown sauce was new to me — on the thick side, but not quite gravy, it had a subtle blend of savory and sweet. I could taste soy sauce, but it didn’t dominate. I ate forkfuls of beef and fries, mixed with the sauce. The Asian-style rice (not sticky) proved a welcome sidekick. The hefty pieces of onion were crunchy, the tomatoes juicy. The Causa de Pollo was, um, different. It consisted of layers of yellow mashed potato and a paste-like chicken salad. A wedge of hard-boiled egg and an avocado sat on stop and it was al drizzled with a pinkish sauce that looked like Russian dressing. We took a few bites. When Santiago asked how everything was, we told him that we really liked the Lomo Saltado but the Causa de Pollo wasn’t our thing — although we were glad to have tried an authentic Peruvian appetizer. When the check came, he had deducted 40% from the price. ALPA PERUVIAN CUISINE Open about five months. Alpa is part of a small food hall called Edge Eatery, which includes two other counter-style restaurants, with shared tables. A cozy set-up. During our visit at 5 p.m. Thursday, the place was very Spanish. When we ordered a beer and glass of wine, I realized that the bartenders knew about as much English as I knew Spanish — un poco. David was the exception. He co-owns Alpa, he served us, and he’s from Peru. He gave us dish descriptions and recommendations in perfect English. Latin music played quietly, and then a sudden turn: The Beatles’ “Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds.” It was the kind of incongruous moment that makes me smile. We ordered Lomo Saltado ($25) and Salchipapa ($12), a Peruvian street food made of French fries and pieces of sausage. Appearance This Loma Saltado looked elegant and appetizing. The beef was cut in chunks more so than slices. The rice was basmati. Taste and Texture The first criterion: Was the beef tender? Not so much. I cut the chunks into smaller pieces, which mitigated the chewiness. Instead of sauce, this version came au jus. The brown nectar enhanced the meat and sogged up the fries. The rice made more than a cameo — it became an integral part of the dish. The tomatoes and onions were spot-on. The Salchipapa came as a plate of fries with what looked like slices of hot dog on top. (I think it was a different type of sausage, but not by much). Although Peruvian, the dish had a familair air. And the Winner of the Peruvian Limo Saltado Scuffle Is … I came so close to calling this a tie, but the FFF bylaws prohibit it. So … La Mordida. The decider was the beef. I preferred the juice at Alpa to the sauce La Mordida. Same for the rice. The fries tied. Alpa’s calm vibe, and its location on Central Avenue. appealed more to us. The service was terrific at both places. I could certainly go for Limo Saltado again — especially if I’m getting low on starch.
Four Grocery Stores, Four Apple Pies (Ranked)
In case you somehow hadn’t noticed, it’s pumpkin spice season — all the more reason to feature apple pie this week. We picked up four packaged pies at grocery stores, mostly because it was an efficient way to go about it and, unlike crème brûlée or some type of death-by-chocolate cake, applie pie is not a common item on restaurant menus. I called four bakeries, none of which carried my chosen dessert. We brought our goodies back to the FFF Lab + Photo Studio™ for examination. Our contestants are Winn-Dixie, The Fresh Market, Publix and Whole Foods Market. I’ll rank them at the end. We sampled (okay, I inhaled) two on Wednesday night and two on Thursday afternoon. Consider this column a resource when you have every intention of baking that apple pie during the Holidays but end up getting too busy and saying “aw forget it, I’ll run out to the store.” THE FRESH MARKET This was the prettiest of our pies (far left on the top photo), with an imperfect, straight-from-the-oven appearance. It was also the biggest. I could plainly see pieces of apple that looked bright and crisp, a slight concern. (Too crisp puts me off.) True to its looks, this Fresh Market pie ($13.99) had a homemade flavor, with more than a hint of tartness. I’m not a big fan of al dente apple pieces in my pies, but these came up short of that and added a modicum of crunch. The filling was on the thick side, a plus. And the crust was layered and denser than most. WINN-DIXIE This pie ($7.69, far right on top photo) was the most generic-looking of the lot, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The apple chunks within looked well cooked. It came off as comfort food, and there’s nothing at all wrong with being comforted. It was sweet, but not overly so, and devoid of tartness or crunch, with a filling that added a familiar gooey texture. The crust, especially on the bottom, was thin and surrendered easily to the fork. WHOLE FOODS MARKET It’s not often that I have a mid-afternoon snack consisting of two pieces of apple pie. I know, I know — I could’ve just had a few bites, but apple pie tastes so good, man. We elected to buy a half-pie ($7.49) at Whole Foods — because, really, how much leftover pie does a two-person household need? Everything about this Whole Foods offering was soft, most notably the crust. The apple pieces were difficult to discern from the filling. All the elements blended together. I noticed a hint of tang, and overall the pie had a good sweetness level. PUBLIX We bought the Small Dutch Apple Pie ($4.99). It was the least attractive of our competitors, not because it was small but because the streusel topping looked borderline burnt in spots. However, as we know, appearances can be deceiving. As it turned out, the crumbly stuff up top didn’t taste the least bit burnt, and it added a different sort of pastry-style sweetness and messy crunch to the pie. Call it the X factor. The apple chunks retained their firm texture even as they integrated with the filling. This pie had a spot-on measure of sweetness. Okay, now we rank our grocery-store pies … 1 — Fresh Market 2 — Publix 3 — Winn-Dixie 4 — Whole Foods Market (Bonnie had the same ranking, which is inconsequential because I am a jury of one.) A Final Note: Unless I wasn’t clear enough in the lead, there will be no pumpkin-spice FFF this year — maybe ever. The reasons: (1) there is no pumpkin in pumpkin spice; (2) the incessant marketing of pumpkin-spice products is annoying; 3: I don’t like pumpkin spice.
A Chain vs. a Local in Battle Over Blueberry Pancakes
I don’t often eat pancakes, but when I do, I prefer them stuffed with blueberries. And doused with maple syrup. In the first Friday Food Fight to feature pancakes, I wanted to see if I could tell much difference between versions: (1) mass market pancakes at a breakfast-all-day chain that was named after our food in question (IHOP). (2) artisan (my word) pancakes at a small local restaurant with exactly one type on the regular menu: blueberry (City’s Bistro in St. Pete). I get a hankering for pancakes about twice a year. What’s it like to eat them twice in two days? Let’s find out. IHOP Fun facts: International House of Pancakes first opened in California in 1958. When do you think the company officially changed its name to IHOP? (Pause for you to answer). 1973. I thought it was much later. And I bet you did too. Okay, moving on. We arrived at the IHOP in Pinellas Park at 7 p.m. Tuesday, the setting sun offering a glimpse of pink behind the building. Inside, the colorful decor was tempered by warm lighting, which made the nearly empty place kind of homey as we relaxed in our booth. Light pop music on the dining-room sound system tangled with the speed-metal emanating from the kitchen. Neither was loud enough to be much of a distraction, but I’ve heard better mashups. I ordered a Double Blueberry Pancake Combo ($11.79), a short stack with two poached eggs and two strips of bacon. Bonnie ordered a short stack of regular pancakes ($6.59). Appearance Blueberries inside and blueberries piled on top, with a mound of whipped cream over that. Add in maple syrup and my sugar high (and ensuing crash) awaited. Taste and Texture Solid. That’s the best way to describe these pancakes. They were not too fluffy, had some heft. As you’d expect, they tasted strongly of our chosen fruit. The portion — including the eggs and bacon, but especially the pancakes — was just the right size. I finished the entire meal. We drove home to a large full moon sitting low in the sky. I was full, too — but not stuffed. CITY’S BISTRO City’s Bistro is tucked into the south end of a strip center at 4th Street and 35th Avenue North. The place gets stellar reviews for service, and that was certainly on display Wednesday at 10:40 a.m., 20 minutes before pancake cutoff. Our server, Kate, was all smiles and cordiality. She set down a plate containing four little blueberry muffins. A blueberry amuse-bouche. I saved them for later so I wouldn’t be over-blueberried. Value cleanliness in you eateries? While we waited, I saw Kate vigorously spray down and clean off a table and seats at a booth — then sweep up around it. The smallish rectangular space let in plenty of natural light. We sat at a two-top and I ordered Wild Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes ($12.50) and chose a sausage patty over bacon. Appearance I admired the homemade appearance of this tri-stack. The pancakes were big, but not ridiculously so. The syrup came in a small container. I asked for another. Taste and Texture Here was the test: Could I enjoy pancakes 15 hours after I’d just eaten them? I did. The cake itself had a slightly rustic texture and taste, but the X factor was the blueberries. Sourced from Michigan, they were plump and popped with natural flavor, adding moments of delight. The fruit was concentrated in the middle, so if I wanted to taste more pancake, I ate toward the outer edges. About halfway through, I hit the pancake wall. No sense bringing the leftovers home, although I did box up the mini-muffins for later. At some point years ago, I went on a bad run with sausage patties and switched to links, but this patty (by Boar’s Head) was thin and perfectly cooked. Bonnie ate half. And the Winner of the Battle of the Blueberry Pancakes Is … City’s Bistro. An easy call — but not meant to disparage IHOP. That place served me worthy pancakes, to go along with worthy eggs and bacon. IHOP was up against a small restaurant that scratch-makes its pancakes and goes the extra mile with ingredients. Going in, I wanted to find out if there would be a notable difference. And there was. I liked the vibe at City’s Bistro. The place really has its game together. It’s close to home, so I’ll probably go back. But no pancakes. I’m good on pancakes until, oh, mid-2026.
Two Vietnamese Restaurants in the Battle of the Bún
Before we begin, it’s pronounced “boon.” Short, sharp. Bún. Knowing that will help you in reading this. A signature Vietnamese dish served in a bowl, bún consists of bed of rice vermicelli covered with thin-sliced vegetables, a variety of meats, herbs and other goodies. A topping I’ve frequently seen is egg rolls chopped into bite-sized pieces. Called chả giò, it came into vogue in the mid-20th Century as Vietnamese street food. Because bún is a decidedly Vietnamese dish, I chose two decidedly Vietnamese restaurants — not French Vietnamese or pan-Asian. They are Nambo Kitchen in Pinellas Park and Pho 813 in Tampa. NAMBO KITCHEN The small, stand-alone building that houses Nambo Kitchen sits just west of the Shoppes at Park Place. This section of Park Boulevard is commerce-heavy and often traffic-jammed, so its best to keep a sharp eye out for the restaurant. The building is kind of ramshackle, like a roadside dive, but it had an inviting air. Maybe it’s the porch, which was empty during our visit at 7:30 Monday. Inside, the place is well-lit (just this side of too bright), basic — it has a drink case — and comfortable. Our party of two hungry people out for a late (for us) dinner ordered the combination bún with grilled pork, shrimp and egg roll ($16.50); grilled pork spring rolls (2, $6.95); and fried dumplings ($7.95). I got a mango smoothie ($6.95). Appearance I saw thin-sliced cucumber, julienned carrots, chopped shallots and what looked like crumbled peanuts mixed in with the proteins. The vermicelli peeked through in places. I knew my chopsticks would soon be discarded in favor of a fork. Taste and Texture This bún, like most of the others I’ve eaten, tasted like a fresh spring morning. The vermicelli, slightly warm, acted as an accompanist for the other ingredients, but without these skinny rice noodles, the dish would be much diminished, if even worthwhile. My favorite topping was the egg roll, which added a flaky, comfort-food element to complement the slurpy noodles and crunchy vegetables. I liberally dosed the bowl with a house-doctored fish sauce, which a added a welcome wave of sweetness. We were impressed with the spring rolls, the dark brown of the grilled pork showing through the clear rice paper. We dipped them in a thick peanut sauce and make them disappear. The velvety smoothie — lighter than a milkshake — came in a cute branded cup. Pho 813 Pho 813, which the owners of Yummy House opened in early 2021, is located on Henderson Boulevard just north of the clogged intersection with Dale Mabry. We had the scheduling misfortune of heading there during early rush hour, arriving at 5:15 on Thursday. The spacious interior has an airy, modern feel, with light hues of brown and beige complemented by white chairs. We ordered the combination bún with beef, pork, chicken, shrimp and a sectioned egg roll ($19.99), plus grilled pork summer rolls (2, $8.25) and a beef bahn mi ($11.99). Appearance The bowl was big and deep, loaded with toppings, with a smaller bowl of fish sauce on top. It looked like a lot. The noodles were buried. Taste and Texture This bún was harder to attack than its competitor. I had to dredge the noodles to the top and pair them with proteins. The small egg rolls were rendered all but inconsequential. The meats had a nicely grilled flavor. My fave was the beef, which was more tender than expected. The meats came in large pieces, which required me to split them into smaller pieces by hand. It was either that or pull them out of the bowl and cut them with a knife. Sorry, I’m not that refined. As for the acouterments, the daikon was a nice touch, but the abundance of lettuce got in the way. The fish sauce was not as sweet as that of Nambo. The spring rolls had hefty cuts of grilled pork, noodles, mint and a leaves of romaine lettuce bound in rice paper. They were next level. The bahn mi was thick with beef, which was also notably tender, but its toppings lacked the pickled punch that I’ve had in other versions. And the Winner of the Battle of the Bún Is … Nambo Kitchen. No question I liked both versions, but the relative simplicity of Nambo’s bún gave it the edge. The components stood on their own while working as a whole. Two other factors: bigger, better egg rolls and the sweeter fish sauce. Pho 813 served a bigger portion with a lot more stuff, so if you like your bowls loaded, this would probably be the one for you. I gave the nod to Pho 813 in the spring/summer roll competition.
Two Chains Tangle Over Which Makes the Better Fish Sandwich
We were choppin’ it up over dinner in Atlanta, trying to come up with new ideas for Friday Food Fight, which is not as easy as it seems after more than three-and-a-half years of weekly columns, when my daughter said, “Hey, you should do fish sandwiches at two fast-food places.” I packed the idea away for down the road. Its time has come. Instead of featuring high-profile chains (MacD’s, BK, Wendy’s), I thought it better to try places with lower profiles and introduce them to you, dear readers. Contestant #1: Culver’s, a burger-centric brand that has only been in the Tampa Bay market for a decade but has built a strong presence. Its fish sandwich gets strong grades online. Contestant #2: For a local angle, Salem’s Fresh Eats, which first opened in Tampa in 1988 and has 14 locations clustered mostly around the Bay area, the farthest away being Winter Haven. We ate at locations in St. Pete. Rather than bring the sandwiches back to the the FFF Lab + Photo Studio™ and risk them getting cold, we ate on site. CULVER’S At 7:15 Tuesday, we opted to dine outdoors, with woosh-woosh-woosh of 4th Street traffic on one side and a spectacular sunset on the other. This Culver’s has servers that are friendly and seem to really care about their jobs. We ordered at the drive-thru: a North Atlantic Cod Sandwich combo with fries and a drink ($12.69). And I couldn’t resist a milkshake ($5.79, large) A young guy brought our meal out, and said we should let him know if we needed anything. Appearance I hadn’t eaten fast food in a while, and this meal looked the part. The sandwich came in a small box, which beat a paper wrap. The cod inside the roll was impressively thick. Taste and Texture I first took notice of the delicate crust, which offered a mild crunch but was well short of crispy. Kudos to Culver’s. I’m not a fan of fish sandwiches that hide the actual flesh amid a mound of deep-fried breading. The cod was meaty and tender (but not flaky), and not the least bit “fishy”-tasting. The soft bun lacked personality but, like a classic role player, it supported the fish. The cheese was subtle, as was the tartar sauce, both pluses. (I’ve had the misfortune of sitting down to $20 grouper sandwiches that were sloppy with cheese and tartar sauce.) The fries were solid, not over-salted, another plus. All told, the Culver’s North Atlantic Cod Sandwich looked like fast food but didn’t eat like it. SALEM’S FRESH EATS For our first ever visit to a Salem’s, Bonnie drove westward through a driving rainstorm. The downpour had abated by our arrival at 12:45 Thursday, and we walked into the place to the smell of fresh rain on asphalt. A sign on the window touted a deal on gizzards, which would not be part of our dining experience at Salem’s. We decided to eat in — because there’s no place to eat outside. The restaurant’s interior is beige-y and nondescript, but comfortable enough. I ordered the fish sandwich platter, with fries and a drink ($12.59). The manager, Craig, explained that I could get the sandwich with mayo, tomatoes, onion and pickles. “The works,” I said. He waived the $1 fee for a small container of tartar sauce. Appearance This presented more as a meal than what we had at Culver’s. Two slabs of fried tilapia protruded from the bun, and the plastic plate was filled out by basic fries. Taste and Texture The fish was nicely breaded, with a touch of crunch. The tilapia was a tad nondescript but was not beset by the dessication that can plague a sandwich like this. There was a lot stuffed into this beast, but it never fell apart and became an unholy mess. I especially appreciated the briney punch provided by the thin dill-pickle slices and the crunch of the onion and lettuce. Add in the juicy brightness of the tomato and it amounted to a winning combination of flavors. The fries were solid. And the Winner of the Fish Sandwich Skirmish Is … Salem’s Fresh Eats. A close one. I tilted toward the fuller flavor of Culver’s cod, but as an overall sandwich the Salem’s version had more character. Overall, the meal was surprisingly unlike fast food, which might seem counterintuitive here because the premise is based on fast food. The best way I can put it is that the Salem’s version came off as more made to order (and served hot). As someone who rarely eats at fast-food joints, I was pleasantly surprised that, in each case, the meals were well thought out, well prepared, flavorful and — while not exactly salubrious — neither were they unhealthy gut bombs. I’d eat them again — but probably won’t.
Awesome Buco! Two Braised Pork Shanks Slug it Out
Ossobuco is the culinary embodiment of the proverb “the nearer the bone, the sweeter the meat.” The dish, which dates back to the early 1800s in Northern Italy, centers around a slow-braised meat shank — beef, veal or pork (I’ve only had the latter, as far as I know). Translated from Italian, ossobuco means “bone with a hole.” The meat is definitely bone-adjacent — thus tasty and tender. And sweeter. Two locally owned Italian restaurants square off this week: Buona Ristorante on St. Pete Beach and Gratzzi Italian Grill in downtown St. Pete. BUONA RISTORANTE First, kudos to Buona for resilience. The small space in Dolphin Village was hammered by last year’s hurricanes and underwent a three-month rebuild. Then in mid-May, a large portion of the shopping center — including a CVS and a Publix — burned down. Buona, unaffected by the blaze, closed for a couple of days per the fire marshal, but news reports said the untouched storefronts would be shut down indefinitely. That confluence of events, plus the ongoing construction nearby (as can be seen in the photo) have seriously hampered business. Yet Buona persists and will continue doing so — so said Alison, the manager I spoke to. We arrived at 6:30 Tuesday, and even though Buona has outdoor seating in the front and back, we chose a four-top inside for our party of three. Bonnie and I opted to split the Rosemary Osso Buco ($34) and added a house side salad for five bucks. Appearance In my experience, ossobuco always looks striking, and this version made the grade. The bone jutted upward, with a sprig of rosemary on top. The pork shank was joined by a generous helping of parmigiano risotto and sautéed broccolini. A bonus: the dish arrived with steam wafting upward. Taste and Texture Part of the fun of eating ossobuco is fork-peeling delicate pieces of meat from the bone, and seeing it all fall apart. Even better is eating the sublimely tender morsels. It’d been several years since I’d had the dish, and Buona’s version lived up to my high expectations. The rosemary demi-glace was vividly rich, accentuating the flavor of the pork. I’m not much of a risotto fan, but I enjoyed this cheesy version. The broccolini was crispy to the point that it needed cutting with a knife and fork. A sizable piece of the shank remained, and it’s sitting in my fridge as I write this. GRATZZI ITALIAN GRILL News accounts have noted how difficult this summer has been for Bay area restaurants, with several closing. Gratzzi — open for 15 years, but it seems like longer — is an exception. At 7:15 on a Wednesday, in September, the restaurant was at capacity. Our party of three was fortunate to score a four-top in the quieter dining room, away from the bar, without a wait*. Gratzzi presents as an old-school Italian eatery — as in, dark. With velvet curtains on one side of the room. You get the idea. Our eyes widened a little when we saw that the Pork Ossobuco cost $52. We wondered aloud why Gratzzi charges such a hefty price. “Because they can,” I said. Appearance “Where’s the bone?” I asked with a twinge of panic. After a bit of inspection, we saw that it laid horizontally, buried under braised pork. Phew. This version wasn’t pretty, although it did have a purple flower, which seemed out of place amid a mound of brown. The vegetable medley included carrots, a good sign. Taste and Texture The meat’s texture was firmer than the competition’s, with a slightly bolder flavor. I consulted the menu later and saw that Gratzzi uses “Kurobuta” pork, which, according to the AI machine, refers to a Berkshire breed whose meat is often called the “Wagyu of pork.” The demi-reduction was more like a gravy than Buona’s. And the ample portion soaked the porcini mushroom risotto that sat beneath the meat. (The dish did not taste of mushroom, for which I was grateful.) The soft carrots were a bonus, as expected. And the Winner of the Awesome Buco Battle Is … Gratzzi. This was a close call, and I’d gladly order either one again. The factor that tipped the decision toward Gratzzi was its “gravy.” * A Closing Note: We at first sat down to eat ossobuco at Cafe Cibo, whose pricing is closer to Buona’s. When our server told us that it was no longer on the menu, we got busy on our phones and were relieved to discover that Gratzzi serves it, so we pivoted and hustled downtown. The Gratzzi menu says to “ask for availability,” of ossobuco, so we lucked out. Sometimes field work for Friday Food Fight can be downright harrowing. More from the AI machine: “The nearer the bone, the sweeter the meat” proverbial saying, late 14th century. Usages reflect both the belief that meat close to the bone has the best taste and texture, and the idea that it is valued because it represents the last vestiges of available food. In another search, I turned this up: The final part of something is the most exciting.
Salad Days: The 9 Best I’ve Eaten This Year (So Far)
Salads were always something I shoveled in my mouth as a preamble to the real food. Then a few months ago — probably out of food-writer obligation — I started paying more attention, ordering salads that looked interesting on menus, carving out space for them in this column. Yet I never got to the point where I featured two salads in an actual Friday Food Fight. So I went with something better — I think — by putting together a list of the best ones I’ve eaten in ’25. Nine of them made the grade. I’ll reveal my favorite at the end. Cognac Cognac Romaine Salade à la Lyonnaise This French restaurant that opened in downtown St. Pete in February offers a salad with a fancy French name. Its X factor is a poached egg that runs throughout the romaine lettuce and thick pieces of bacon. Hmm, a salad with bacon-and-eggs (dressed in a tangy vinaigrette). Count me in. Tryst Watermelon Burrata Although this place on Beach Drive is more known as a night spot, its food menu includes an impressive grouping of four salads. We chose the Watermelon Burrata and were glad we did. A big bulb of the smooth cheese mixed with golf-ball-sized pieces of watermelon to evoke a sublime fruit-to-salt/crispy-to-creamy blend. It all sat on a bed of arugula, and was finished with salted, roasted pistachios. Fresco’s Waterfront Bistro Fresco’s House Salad Sometimes it’s the little things. The tomatoes in this salad were sliced lengthwise, making them less seedy and amplifying their flavor. Same with the red onion. The carrots were julienned. Pepita seeds provided little morsels of delight. A sesame ginger dressing tied it all together. Rumba Island Grill Rumba Bacon, bacon, candied bacon. You can never have too much bacon — candied or otherwise — although this salad pushed that envelope. The cured meat was joined by thick rounds of red onion, tomato slices that were far better than we tend to get around here, greens and other good stuff (blistered street corn!), coated in a sweetish dressing. In all, a winning combo. Beacon Sample Salad at Tampa Bay Food Fight We ate this wonderful assemblage at the annual food event in Amalie Arena. The small portion served in a paper bowl blended assorted greens, cranberries, grapefruit, a slice of prosciutto and small bulb of burrata. A sweetish dressing topped it off. So good we went back for another round. Unfortunately, the salad does not appear on the regular menu of this rooftop lounge in downtown Tampa. Even so, I had to include it. Teak House Salad I’ve eaten this one twice — and dug it both times. This imaginative array accents its greens with hefty helpings of strawberries and mandarin oranges, which render it altogether refreshing. A “roasted sesame pineapple ginger dressing” adds to the delight. BellaBrava Misticanza A superior house salad of romaine lettuce, radicchio, red onion, little tomatoes and other goodies, liberally topped with grated grana padano cheese. We were all in on the honey basil dressing. Bascom’s Chop House Bascom’s House Salad Iceberg lettuce, yes! Julienned ham and Swiss cheese, nice! Green olives, uh huh. Topped with a tangy parmesan vinaigrette dressing, liberally sprinkled with grated parmesan. A classic steakhouse salad. Sunshine City Tavern The Belle Salad And lastly, a salad with a side of heavy sadness. Sunshine City, the dream concept of celebrated local chef Ted Dorsey, opened in late March on 4th Street in St. Pete. A month later, Dorsey received a diagnosis of Stage 4 pancreatic cancer. Due to his health issues, the restaurant closed in early August. We ate there in April and mightily enjoyed the Belle Salad, which had a cornucopia of flavors: apricots and candied pecans for sweetness, red onions for a touch of bitterness, smoked gouda for sharpness. A lovely Honeycomb Vinaigrette with a subtle flavor of horseradish. We ordered it with chicken tenders, which were moist and flavorful and had a perfect crust. I got to know Ted while he was working on opening The Mill in downtown St. Pete and I was reporting on restaurants for the Tampa Bay Business Journal. We struck up an easy rapport and stayed in touch. He’s a great guy and a fabulous cook. We wish him nothing but love during his cancer battle. My Fave Watermelon Burrata at Tryst. Runner up: The Belle Salad at Sunshine City Tavern.
Spotlight: Ford’s Garage—Beef vs. Bison in a Burger Battle
I’ve eaten infinity beef burgers, a smattering of plant-based burgers and zero bison burgers that I’m aware of. Suddenly, I’ve become bison-curious. I chose a different tack for this week’s edition: Rather than square off bison burgers at two restaurants, I chose to pit a bison burger against a beef burger in the same place: Ford’s Garage. We decided to make it a blind taste test. Simple, right? Not for us. And not for the Ford’s Garage service staff. The exercise did make our outing more fun, though. I racked my brain trying to figure out how to do a dramatic reveal between beef and bison in this space, but I guess I’m just not smart enough. I will, however, reveal which one I preferred. FORD’S GARAGE We arrived at the downtown St. Pete location — there are three on the other side of the Bay — at 6:30 Tuesday, and sat inside amid the wild assortment of Ford paraphernalia. Our server, Jared, was game for the blind test. We opted to put basic toppings on each burger: American cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion. (The beef burger cost $14.99, the bison version was $19.98.) Jared explained to the kitchen people and the manager that we should not know which was which. After about 10 minutes, a woman walked towards us with two plates. She presented them with a flourish. “And heeere’s the bison bur…” “No!” I exclaimed. Her name was Tracy, the managing partner, and we had a good laugh about it. Fortunately, I had turned my head away quickly enough to preserve the blindfold test. Appearance I’ve stacked the two photos above so you can play along. Can you determine on a screen which is beef and which is bison? One burger looked fatter and more pink inside. But there was no tell-tale evidence differentiating the two. One dish had fries, the other onion rings, and we hoped that Jared and/or Tracy would remember which was which. Bonnie and I debated how we could best keep track of each burger as we taste-tested, and ultimately found that a third plate helped. Taste and Texture I alternated between burgers, reluctantly setting aside my regular ketchup or other condiments to better taste the meat. Such hardships. We had fun analyzing each burger almost as much as we enjoyed eating them. The fatter one had a meatier flavor, and — if I chewed slowly enough — a more grainy consistency. I could detect in the darker one a more pebbly texture. Neither was noticeably more juicy than the other. Bonnie and I made our beef-or-bison determinations early on, both of us on the same page. As I ate further, the differences between the two began to diminish, and I had pangs of doubt about my choices. The Reckoning While I pause to build suspense, take a moment of have a look at the restaurant’s bar area. Notice the antique Ford hovering above. Dig the rims. Bonnie and I decided that the pinker/fatter burger (the upper photo) was the bison. We asked Jared for the reveal. He looked over the remnants of each and declared it was the other way around. I didn’t buy it. We called Tracy over. She had kept track of the fries and onion rings, and informed us that Bonnie and I were correct. Yay! And the Winner of the Beef vs. Bison Burger Battle Is … Bison. Mostly due to the novelty of trying something new. And being right. And getting to talk trash to Jared and Tracy after it was all said and done. This verdict does not mean I’m a convert to bison burgers. But I’ll order one again — some time, down the line, probably out West. Our burger competition was sloppy and silly and the polar opposite of scientific. Thanks to the Ford’s Garage crew for accommodating us and joining in the spirit of the project. We had a blast.