Things have more or less returned to normal for us, so no Post-Hurricane edition this week. I write those words with all due love and sympathy for those whose normal is a long way off.
It’s been a while since this column featured a premium dish. And it’s been a while since I’ve had steak, anywhere.
Steak Frites is French for “steak and fries.” I wasn’t sure, so I checked this: “frites” is pronounced “freet,” with no “s” sound. Although the dish includes French fries and its name is in the French language, the country of Belgium claims to be its place of origination. With those details cleared up, let’s continue.
We chose a couple of semi-upscale restaurants: Cassis in downtown St. Pete and District South Kitchen & Craft in South Tampa.
CASSIS
We’ve had a couple of light meals at this popular eatery on Beach Drive in downtown St. Pete, always outdoors on the front patio. This was our first dinner here, so even though the weather was lovely we chose to dine indoors as a change of pace.
The interior is spacious and tastefully designed. Most of the customers were eating al fresco on Monday at 6:15, so the hostess put us in the corner of a large leather banquette, providing both me and Bonnie ample couch space. I like eating dinner for two at corner positions rather than across the table. Makes for easier conversation.
We opted to split our meal: Bar Steak Frites ($41.90), cooked medium, with a starter of Crispy Brussels Sprouts ($16.50).
Appearance
A fat chunk of sirloin (that looked like filet mignon) luxuriated in a pool of dark-red wine sauce, with fries stacked in a separate container. A dollop of garlic butter perched atop the meat. Nice touch having the Cassis logo on the plate.
Texture and Taste
I’m glad we ordered the steak medium. It was perfectly cooked to our liking, the ideal level of pink.
I’ve had sirloin that was unpleasantly chewy, even push-it-away tough. This was the polar opposite of that. Clearly a superior cut, the steak was surprisingly tender, but not melt-in-your-mouth tender like a filet. It took an agreeable amount of jaw work. The steak had an earthy flavor that stood on its own. I alternated between taking naked bites and dipping the meat into the rich brown sauce, which had just enough wine flavor.
The thin frites had a lightly crispy exterior that gave way to a firm innards that retained their potato taste. And they weren’t greasy in the least.
I’m not a big fan of Brussels Sprouts, but these won me over. They came in a big white bowl, dark husks on top, littered with chopped shallots. The orbs were crispy on the outside, but delightfully moist and green on the inside. The bitter(ish) vegetable was punctuated with garlic and dosed with a secret weapon — a chili-infused honey that added a subtle sweetness. In all, the appetizer’s creative blend of complementary flavors rendered it a cut above.
DISTRICT SOUTH KITCHEN & CRAFT
At 7 p.m. on Wednesday, business at this South Tampa hotspot — the sister concept to District Tavern in the Channel District — was picking up. By 7:30, the place was full, buzzing with energy.
District South has patio seating that faces Dale Mabry Highway so we chose to sit at a four-top in the tastefully appointed interior. We only saw one server working the room, and although she was in nonstop motion, she was pleasant and upbeat with us.
We ordered Steak Frites ($34), cooked medium, a starter of Charred Brussels ($12), plus Bread & Butter ($7). I got a Tampa Export on draft ($7), which I’d not heard of. I was excited to try a new local lager. It’s a product of Barriehaus Beer Co., based in Ybor City.
Appearance
The 12-ounce New York strip, a beast, had an inviting char. The fries were piled on the plate with the meat. Containers of ketchup and chimichuri aioli sauce nosed their way on as well, like the last entrants on a subway car.
Texture and Taste
Two perfectly cooked steaks within three days. This piece tracked a tad more rare than the one at Cassis, and it took some extra knife and jaw work, but I chalked that up to the difference in the cuts. The sirloin had a hearty flavor and was succulently juicy. This slab of beef was big enough that, even though Bonnie and I split the meal, we couldn’t finish it.
The fries were bigger and thicker, with a crispier exterior, than those at Cassis. The Brussels sprouts were considerably different as well. Their bitterness was not mitigated by sweetness, but rather made salty by tiny slices of chorizo. Dipping sprouts in the lush aioli sauce added a smoothness that benefited the bold-flavored dish.
Kudos to the Tampa Export beer. It was smooth and full-bodied, easily drinkable but with lots of character. I had two.
And the Winner of the Steak Frites Scuffle Is …
Cassis.
Cassis edged out a victory. It was a pleasure having two first-rate splurge-y meals in a week.