Tuscon, Arizona, 1950s — a cook accidentally drops a burrito into a deep fryer and blurts out a mild Mexican-American swear word. Chimichanga!

So goes the credible origin story of a dish that is regularly found on the menus of Mexican, Tex-Mex and Southwest-style restaurants in the U.S., but rarely in Mexico itself.

Burritos have long been my go-to, but as near as I can remember, never a deep-fried burrito. So it’s high time, I guess. We ate our chimichangas at Carmelita’s Mexican Grill & Cantina in Dunedin and Pepe’s Cantina in St. Pete.

A curious day-after-Christmas FFF, you say? Well, I couldn’t find any restaurants that serve goose.

CARMELITA’S

Our visit here came about by accident. We’d made reservations at a popular downtown-Dunedin restaurant, where we were to meet our friend Brett. As we drove west on Main Street, he called and said, with a perplexed laugh, “I can’t get there.”

A parade had clogged traffic to the point that trying to get downtown was a fool’s errand. We had to pivot, and quickly settled on Carmelita’s. It was a Saturday night, and the place had a pretty good bustle going. The interior was decked out in Christmas-y decor. We slipped into a booth.

As I sipped a Modelo draft and perused the menu, looking for something other than my usual, I landed on Chimichanga ($16.49). Thus an edition of Friday Food Fight was born. I ordered mine with pork filling.

Appearance

Pretty basic. This chimichanga looked considerably thinner than the burritos I’d had. I doubted that deep-frying would make them skinny. The lettuce on the plate was noticeably meager. I was pleased to see a healthy dollop of sour cream — sour cream I didn’t have to ask for, or pay for.

Taste and Texture

Our server had characterized the pork as “spicy.” It wasn’t. The shredded meat was juicy and tender — not stringy like some versions can be.

The tortilla required a knife and fork, but I can’t say that the deep-frying added a markedly new dimension. The beans and rice were up to standard. I cleaned my plate amid lively conversation.

PEPE’S CANTINA

Located in a small shopping center in the Kenwood section of St. Pete, Pepe’s has been open since April. It’s the only Tampa Bay location of a growing chain with seven restaurants in Florida. The place had an impressive bustle going, certainly for a Monday night at 6:30.

We sat in a booth and were instantly greeted by free chips and salsa. Our server, Dez, a young transplant from Connecticut, was a delightful presence. All smiles and energy, he oozed an I’m-glad-to-be-here vibe — glad to be serving people at a busy Mexican restaurant. In St. Pete, Florida, not Connecticut.

Bonnie and I decided to each get our own Chimichanga — Carnitas, shredded pork ($19) for me; Birria, shredded beef ($20) for she. We planned to split them up.

Appearance

Umm, yeah! Dez told us proudly that the silken glaze covering these fat chimichangas was house-made queso. The salad of lettuce, salsa and guacamole made me smile, as did the sour cream, which came without having to ask.

These beasts were stuffed well beyond expectation with marinated, shredded meat that was juicy and next-level delicious. We discussed which version we preferred and decided on the birria, by a narrow margin. With just the right level of fat, it reminded me of heavenly pot roast.

Chunks of pork joined the shredded stuff in the carnitas. The meat was remarkably moist and tender, the polar opposite of the dry, ropey carnitas I’ve too often had at restaurants. The fixins — especially the bright salsa — took this next-level meal to the next level. The queso was the icing on the cake. The beans and rice provided a delectable complement.

And the Winner of the Chimichanga Challenge Is …

No suspense here.

Pepe’s Cantina.

Carmelita’s served me a perfectly adequate chimichanga. The Pepe’s pair knocked us out.

I’ll sum it up this way. Between the excellent food and superior service, as well as the reasonable proximity to home, I see no reason to eat at any other Mexican restaurant in the Bay area — except, of course when I’m doing FFF field work. We’ve already begun raving about Pepe’s to our friends. If you, reader, are within striking distance, by all means eat there.

A Final Thought: I hope all of you who observe Christmas had a lovely Christmas.