Mahi Mahi — aka “dolphfish.” I prefer “mahi mahi.” Even though dolphinfish does not refer to the adorable mammals, I still imagine forkfuls of Flipper. Can’t help it.
I’m pleased to see that most restaurants use the Hawaiian-language name of the ubiquitous warm-weather fish. Some restaurants refer to it as “mahi,” assuming, I suppose, that their customers are in a big hurry.
Okay, enough rhetorical silliness.
This week I ate at two restaurants to see which one serves the better blackened mahi mahi: Root + Clay and Fourth Street Shrimp Store, both in St. Pete.
ROOT + CLAY
Root + Clay is the resident eatery at the Racquet Club of St. Petersburg, a half-mile east of 4th Street North. The space has housed several restaurants (including a short-lived Filipino concept), but Root + Clay — which opened in 2024 with a covers-the-bases American menu — looks as if it’ll stick.
We arrived at 6:30 on blustery Monday under a cerulean sky, and sat at a four-top on the large outdoor patio under a sail shade that matched the color above. Wind rustled the trees, accompanied by the thwack of tennis balls from games being played on clay courts.
It wasn’t chilly, but, given the wind gusts, I put on a light jacket over my Orlando Magic T-shirt. I ordered the Blackened Mahi (they forgot the second “Mahi”) Entree ($19) with “root mash” and broccolini. Bonnie got the Coconut Shrimp ($13) appetizer.
Appearance
The hefty plank of mahi mahi, well blackened, sat atop the orange(ish) mash. A lemon wedge was welcome, a container of tartar sauce unnecessary.
Taste and Texture
At first bite, I thought the mahi mahi might be a little dry. I was wrong. It was just the blackened seasoning announcing itself. The fish was more meaty than flaky, which I appreciated, and had a faintly sweetish flavor. The spice provided a hearty crust but could’ve been a little stronger to add some heat.
The mash — made of sweet potato, potato-potato and celery root — was terrific, with a subtle flavor all its own that was new to me. I favored bites that combined fish and mash. The broccolini was, quizzically, closer to cold than warm.
FOURTH STREET SHRIMP STORE
I’d been to this 42-year institution, a few blocks north of downtown, once before, but had little memory of it. Apparently, I didn’t feel the need to return. Seeing as I’ve driven by the place countless times, I figured it was time I gave it another try.
With two dining rooms and ample outdoor seating. Fourth Street Shrimp Store is far bigger than I remembered. At 6:30 Wednesday, wanting to avoid traffic noise from busy 4th Street, we sat at a four-top in the back dining room, which mixed a nautical theme with bric-a-brac signifying St. Pete history (i.e. Webb’s City).
Our server, Kelsey, was energetic and all smiles. I ordered the blackened Mahi Mahi dinner ($18), which came with coleslaw, and chose rice as my side. Bonnie got blackened salmon ($18).
Appearance
An apt representation of what you get a no-frills seafood restaurant. We were glad we didn’t split the entree because it would not have been enough for two. The meals came out quickly.
Taste and Texture
When compared to Root + Clay’s, this filet was notably thinner, and therefore a bit dry in spots, chewy in others. The blackened seasoning was barely evident.
The large-grain rice was clumpy and mostly dry. As for the coleslaw, it was standard budget-restaurant fare — overly wet, but not enough to prevent me from eating both my portion and Bonnie’s. I also stole quite a few of her fries, which were nicely done.
And the Winner of the Blackened Mahi Mahi Battle Is …
Root + Clay.
One of the easier calls I’ve had to make in quite a while.
Note: In case there is any doubt, Root + Clay is open to the public.
