What once prompted groans at the dinner table has become a staple of restaurant appetizer menus. How could it be that Brussels sprouts made this leap? Here’s how:

In the 1990s, growers developed less bitter variants through selective breeding. Chefs started using high-heat roasting, frying and sautéing instead of boiling. Brussels sprouts began to pop up on restaurant menus, and by the 2010s, often doctored up with other ingredients, they became trendy. Somewhat surprisingly — at least to me — the trend stuck.

With new FFF dishes harder to come after four years, I relented on Brussels sprouts. Let’s see how it plays out:

Our two contestants are Stillwaters Tavern in downtown St. Pete; and Olivia, with locations in downtown St. Pete and Hyde Park/Tampa. And because one definitely cannot live on Brussels sprouts alone, we split an entree at each place.

STILLWATERS TAVERN

We’re running out of time to truly enjoy al fresco dining, so at 6 on Tuesday — with the temp at 80 and a light breeze — it was a no-brainer to eat on the sidewalk under the restaurant’s covered patio.

The traffic on Beach Drive was light and the foot traffic moderate, making for a low noise level. We settled in at your basic four-top and ordered the Tavern Brussels appetizer ($10.99), with maple bourbon glaze and bacon; and the Birria Grilled Cheese sandwich ($18.99).

Appearance

The Brussels sprouts were amply charred, the bacon barely visible. I’m used to cast-iron crocks being hot. This one wasn’t.

Taste and Texture

I don’t eat this particular vegetable enough to determine if it has become less bitter, but the bitterness was definitely there. In this case, the accompanying ingredients helped tempered it.

I’m no chef, but I think the kitchen made a good decision by keeping the glaze subtle, giving it an understated sweetness. The charred husks gave way to supple innards. The bacon pieces were small and the dish would’ve benefited from having more.

Regarding the sandwich: The damp, shredded birria beef, Mexican-style, blended well with the melted white American. The sourdough toast wasn’t stuffed to the hilt, so the sandwich ate tidily enough. A one-napkin affair.

OLIVIA

It sits on the busy corner of 1st Avenue and 2nd Street North at the base of the Ascent apartment building. The only sign — an elegant muted gold — faces east. It all adds up to an upscale Italian restaurant that exudes confidence. And it should, because Olivia is helmed by prominent Bay area chef Chris Ponte, who has shown a Midas touch in his quarter-century as a local restaurateur (Cafe Ponte, On Swann, Ponte).

We arrived at 5:30 Wednesday and sat at a banquette next to a window amid an expansive, elegant dining room that seats 136. Our young server, Enzo, was attentive and fun.

We ordered “Brussel” Sprouts (I couldn’t resist pointing out the misspelling), $10, from the Contorni (sides) menu; then, with Enzo’s help, went big by getting Tableside Chicken Parmesan ($35) with an add-on of rigatoni and bolognese ($8). (The Olivia in Tampa has the same menu as the one in St. Pete.)

Appearance

A small, gold-colored crock (also not hot) was stacked high with grated parmesan and crispy prosciutto, the sprouts barely evident. As for the chicken, which came later, a food-runner brought us a plate holding two boneless, breaded breasts, followed by another food-runner who poured on a cheese-infused vodka sauce, which oozed over the bird like lava.

Taste and Texture

Like at Stillwaters, the accompanying ingredients served to ameliorate some, but not all, of the sprouts’ bitterness. (And I appreciate that a certain level of bitterness is at least part of the point.) Instead of a sweet tinge, this version used a parmesan aioili to emphasize the cheese flavor. The sprouts were well charred and firm. The prosciutto provided both saltiness and crunch.

Boneless chicken breasts in the hands of lesser kitchens can be chalky. These were moist and tender. The velvety sauce was rich but not overly so.

The rigatoni was perfectly al dente. The bolognese leaned brown and beefy, whereas I prefer mine with more tomato flavor.

And the Winner of the Bitter Tussle Over Brussels Sprouts Is …

I equivocated on this one. These Brussels sprouts were so different. I’m actually still equivocating as I write this … Okay …

Olivia.

By a husk.

While I credit the effort and creativity that each place put forth to make a worthy serving of Brussels sprouts, I would not order either one again. That’s on the vegetable, not the restaurants.

I would, however, order both the grilled cheese at Stillwaters and the chicken parmesan at Olivia again.