What do you mean they cook the fish in citrus? Count me out.

That was my first reaction to the idea of ceviche — when I didn’t eat much fish and I was an idiot.

These days, I only eat ceviche on occasion, but I find it interesting how each restaurant produces a distinct version. I’m hoping that occurs again this week with two Latin-inspired tapas restaurants a mile apart in St. Petersburg — Pulpo Kitchen + Lounge and Bohemios Tapas Cuisine. To accompany the ceviche, we ordered small plates at each place.

PULPO KITCHEN + LOUNGE

With no website other than Facebook and no sign other than a small one on the door, Pulpo seems to be after that urban, hidden-gem vibe. Ordinarily, I’d maintain that such an approach is not a fit for St. Pete, but Pulpo filled plenty of tables on an early Tuesday evening, so what do I know?

The restaurant occupies a classy building in St. Pete’s Grand Central District. We arrived a few minutes before 6:30 to discover that Don and Linda had beaten us to the restaurant yet again. Although the weather was perfect, we passed up the patio to eat inside. The elegant interior was comfortably dark, with a dining room split by a curved bar. We sat at a banquette.

Our winsome server, Liana, was a pro who showed impressive command of the menu. Pulpo makes its Peruvian-style Ceviche ($24) with a single type of fish, and on this night it was red snapper. Bonnie and I added Ropa Vieja ($20). I got a 16-oz. 3 Daughters Beach Blonde Ale (from a can, $8.50).

Appearance

Ceviche is one of the prettiest dishes there is, and this version more than lived up to the standard. The yellow plantain chips added even more color.

The man who brought out the plate told us that pomegranate seeds provided an extra little something. He also counseled us to remove the salad on top and stir the ceviche before eating it. These quick suggestions amplified Pulpo’s commitment to service.

Taste and Texture

Although I’m a ceviche neophyte, I know enough to know that I prefer it with fish only rather than mixed with shellfish. The red snapper sumptuous, and there was plenty of it. Small cubes of sweet potato added a softness that played against the crackle of the pomegranate seeds.

Because the ingredients were cooked in citrus and spiced with ají amarillo chili pepper, this ceviche combined a potent tang with the kind of heat that intensifies in your mouth as you continue to eat. It never got to be too much, though. 

We piled the stuff on the chips and also ate it with a spoon. In all, the dish successfully packed together a complex, harmonious collection of flavors and textures.

The Ropa Vieja featured shredded, braised brisket bathed in a mild tomato sauce over brown rice. Delish — and an ideal complement to the ceviche. (Thanks to Liana for the suggestion.)

BOHEMIOS TAPAS CUISINE

Unlike Pulpo, Bohemios has two big signs hanging above its ample storefront on Central Avenue and MLK Street. Bonnie and I arrived at 6:15 on Wednesday and had the tastefully appointed, nicely lit dining room to ourselves. Flamenco guitar music played at a comfortable volume.

According to the Bohemios website, its tapas offerings are 60% Spanish and 40% Latin American.

Our young (Cuban) server, Yuerika, took excellent care of us. We ordered Mix Ceviche (Puerto Rican-style, $18), Huevos Rotos ($18) and Patatas Bravas ($12).

Appearance

The presentation was not as fancy as that of Pulpo’s, which is more aligned with fine dining. The ceviche included shrimp and scallops along with corvina whitefish, and was topped by a generous pile of diced tomatoes, peppers and onions. Four pieces of fried plantain sat to the side.

If the Huevos Rotos was a “small plate,” I’d like to see an entree.

Compared to Pulpo, Bohemios takes a simpler approach to ceviche. Less spicy-hot and citrusy, it made for easy eating.

The corvina was cut into small pieces, and the shrimp and scallops were small as well. But it all came together deliciously. The top ingredients, especially the tomato, add a crisp brightness to the dish.

The huveos rotos, a Spanish dish, layered potatoes, a fluffy fried egg and ham on top. A pool of velvety sauce on the bottom proved to be the X-factor. Chef/owner Ronaldo (Nicarauguan), who visited our table, calls it a “tomato jalapeno vodka sauce,” and confirmed that it’s his own creation. Congrats, Chef, it’s simple yet refined.

The potato chunks had just the right firmness. The thinly sliced ham was a bit chewy for my liking (that could be due to its Spanish-ness). The egg tied it all together.

And the Winner of the Ceviche Squabble, Tapas Tussle (after considerable chin-stroking) Is …

Pulpo.

A tough call, a split decision. Ultimately, Pulpo’s more edgy approach to ceviche won me over, while I highly enjoyed both. As for the overall meals, I call it a tie.

In all, this week’s ceviche excursion gifted us two days of exceptional tapas dining.

I found it a bit disconcerting that we were the only customers in Bohemios for an hour on Wednesday evening. Often times, an empty restaurant suggests stay away, but that’s certainly not the case here. Give Bohemios a try. You’ll get first-rate food, service and value.

A Final Note: I gotta figure out a way to eat more ceviche.