Tuna that’s cooked all the way through is beige, bland, and pointless. Tuna that’s seared is ruby red, flavorful and, I’m told, good for you.

It’s for those reasons and others that I chose to feature seared tuna this week. We’ll get around to cooked-through tuna … never.

Our contestants are two relatively new restaurants that are part of established brands: Noble Tavern on the eastern edge of St. Pete’s Grand Central District; and Broke N Bored Bar & Grill on Madeira Beach. 

NOBLE TAVERN

Monday, 5:45 p.m. — we’d forgotten it was the Rays’ home opener as we drove toward the restaurant, which is a four-minute walk from Tropicana Field. We worried about finding a parking spot on or near Central Avenue and whether Noble Tavern would have a wait time. Um, not to worry …

Bonnie lucked into a parking space on the same block, and the eatery had no wait, probably because the game was in the 7th inning when we walked in.

The large space is beautifully laid out, with two dining areas wrapped around a large middle bar. We sat at a banquette along a wall. The sound design was impeccable. Even when the place got crowded post-game, the mix of lively conversation and music never became a hindrance.

Noble Tavern — an offshoot of Noble Crust that’s been open since October — specializes in shared plates. We ordered the Ahi Tuna ($22), and because one cannot live on tuna alone, we added the Green + Mean Flatbread ($15).

Appearance

The tuna was beautifully presented, sliced into pieces larger than the usual. Wedges of avocado and a substantial salad filled out the plate, along with three sauces. The flatbread, just the right size for two, was covered in arugula and drizzled with pesto sauce.

Taste and Texture

The two dishes arrived together, so I alternated between them.

I’ve had seared tuna where the raw part was chewy. This was not that. This tuna had a luxurious, melt-in-your-mouth quality and a mild flavor. One of the sauces contained wasabi, which gave the dish just the right measure of spicy heat. The salad was a welcome lagniappe.

The flatbread had two cheeses — mozzarella and fontina — the latter providing sharpness.

The crust was crispy in spots but was, thankfully, not cracker-like. The complex flavor combo included bitterness from arugula, a hint of sweetness from caramelized onion. 

Finally, something I rarely do in restaurants — succumb to dessert. But this dessert was Cinnamon Roll Bread Pudding. “We would be doing ourselves a disservice if we pass this up,” I said to Bonnie. She gave me an if-you-insist look.

It was heavenly — warm pudding with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream on top, surrounded by a decadent brown dulce de leche, its richness tempered by the ice cream. I took a few bites of banana, but mostly concentrated on the stuff that made me order it in the first place. Bonnie tapped out about halfway through. I was glad. 

BROKE AND BORED BAR & GRILL

The second Broke N Bored — the flagship is on Redington Beach — is located at the eastern end of a small strip of bars and shops on Madeira Way. It opened late last year and shares a building with the five-year-old Cambria Hotel. At 6 p.m. Wednesday, the vast space was doing solid business, which would become increasingly robust as time went on.

We joined a large table of friends. I sat across from a handsome Turkish man who didn’t quite understand why I was shooting pics and taking notes. I offered to put him on my FFF email list so he could find out. He balked. After some back and forth, I said, “I’ll add you. It’s the best thing you’ll do all month.”

Our server, Chris, was brash and funny, a take-charge type who deftly managed our barrage of orders. I got the tuna entree ($30). In keeping with the healthy-eating theme, I chose saffron rice and broccolini as sides. For liquid refreshment, I got a Modelo draft.

Appearance

A handsome, appetizing plate of food. I was pleased to see the tuna flecked with sesame seeds. The halves of cherry tomato added a dash of extra color to an already colorful dish.

Taste and Texture

This seared tuna was just as it should be — tender and mildly flavored. The soy drizzle and Thai chili aioli added a hint of welcome sweetness. 

It’s been a while since I finished a helping of broccoli, but I scarfed this one up. These broccolini stalks were less fibrous than thicker broccoli and therefore easier to eat. The rice added balance, but was a bit too clumpy for my liking.

And the Winner of the Searing Tussle of Two Tunas Is …

Noble Tavern.

From strictly a tuna standpoint, this was a tie. I slightly preferred Noble Tavern’s salad over Broke N Bored’s sides.

The two experiences were vastly different — one a calm dinner for two at a refined downtown restaurant; the other a partying table of 12 in an elevated beach bar that got increasingly boisterous as time went on. It was trivia night, which we didn’t know going in. I’m not a fan of trivia nights, and neither were the guys I sat with. 

At our group dinners, the women sit together at one half of the table, the men on the other half — similar to a junior high dance. We sometimes mingle after the eating is done — if the women allow it.