Registry Tampa Bay

Day after day in high school, I’d slap together two PB&Js on Wonder Bread, wrap them in wax paper and drop them in a brown paper bag — along with an apple and a sleeve of Chips Ahoy — before heading out the door.

That started a lifetime of making my own sandwiches for lunch.

My fondness for two pieces of bread with stuff in the middle has not dimmed, and I still generally make my own — although rarely PB&J. Now and then I like to go sandwich exploring to seek out tantalizing concepts at shops and restaurants. 

This week features specialty sandwiches at two reputable eateries — Gateway Subs (The Brycer) and Lonni’s Sandwiches (the Famous Sunny Bird). I picked them up on separate trips and brought them back to the FFF Lab + Photo Studio™.

GATEWAY SUBS

I embarked on my maiden voyage to Gateway Subs on Tuesday, mid-afternoon, the air delightfully crisp. My journey concluded when after five minutes I pulled into a strip mall on 4th Street North in St. Pete.

Gateway opened in August 2021 in the Kenwood section of St. Pete and has expanded to six locations in the greater Tampa Bay area.

Right inside the door, I faced a counter with a see-through plastic shield on top, behind which were two helpful sandwich specialists. No seating, strictly takeout.

At the urging of a Registry Tampa Bay colleague, I got The Brycer (half-size, $9.50) on a toasted white roll. Its primary ingredient is Buffalo chicken salad.

Appearance

A very handsome 6-inch sandwich — stuffed, but not to the gills. A few thin slices of Buffalo chicken breast lay atop it all. An intriguing, potentially risky, add-on.

Taste and Texture

I’m not much for Buffalo flavor, but Gateway’s was mild and tangy, not overpowering like what you get on chicken wings. After the bun’s exterior crackle, it was soft and tender.

I’d wondered if the slices of bird on top would render the sandwich over-chickened (and perhaps over-Buffalo’d), but the opposite was true — the slices added contrasting texture and complemented the salad, which was splendid. Delicate chunks of breast cozied up with crunchy pieces of celery and onion, all of it expertly mayo’d.

A layer of lettuce had been sogged with B’s Spicy Ranch dressing. A blend of two peppers added some spicy heat and a tinge of sweetness. My Brycer was just this side of messy, a two-napkin affair. It was an ambitious sandwich with balanced flavors and textures. Complex, yet thoroughly accessible.

LONNI’S SANDWICHES

At around 11:30 a.m. on Wednesday, I called — yes, called — and ordered. The amiable woman I spoke to informed me that the Famous Sunny Bird has been the best-selling sandwich at Lonni’s for 35 years.

The sandwich shop sits a amid a row of small storefronts on Central Avenue in St. Pete. I arrived at noon and luckily found a parking spot a block-and-a-half west. I waited in line for a few minutes, picked up my Famous Sunny Bird ($11.69) and exited to a sunny day of about 65 degrees.

Appearance

A majestic looking sandwich, with a generous pile of shaved turkey between two planks of Minnesota Wild Rice bread. I could see sprouts, which I hadn’t eaten in a while.

Taste and Texture

Although this was an open-wide sandwich, once I gained purchase with my mouth, the bread gave way easily — soft and fluffy, essentially crustless. The bird was luscious, with a slightly smoked flavor. Including a shmear of cream cheese was a cool twist.

The sprouts provided a winning alternative to lettuce. The X factor was a layer of sunflower seeds, which added a nutty texture. The honey French dressing was a bit too forward, amplifying the sweetness. Although the sandwich looked like a beast, it was actually quite delicate.

And the Winner of the Specialty Sandwich Showdown Is …

The Brycer, Gateway Subs.

Because this wasn’t really and apples-to-apples affair, my choice is even more a matter of sheer preference than usual. I liked and admired these sandwiches for their creativity, complexity and ultimate eatability.

Because Tampa Bay is rife with restaurants and sandwich shops that have signature offerings, and I’m such a sandwichionado, you can expect more Specialty Sandwich Showdowns in the future.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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