I love Indian food. Three or four times a year.
I could probably increase the frequency, but thus far I’m comfortable with my arbitrary quota.
I felt the tug recently, so here we are. I chose chicken tikka masala because of its name recognition, although it’s not my go-to. I’m more of a saag and biryani guy. After selecting tikka masala, I consulted the AI machine, which told me that it’s the most popular Indian dish in the U.S. For those unfamiliar with South Asian food, consider it a gateway meal.
Our two contestants are Lajawab Indian Cuisine in St. Pete and India King Tandoor & Wine in Clearwater.
LAJAWAB INDIAN CUISINE
We arrived on Monday at 7:45, later than our usual dining window because we got halfway there and had to return home so I could record the Magic/Pistons game. The sky was a brush-stroked with dark clouds, but nothing portending rain.
Lajawab is big enough to command three signs on a strip center near the I-275 ramp on 54th Avenue North, but it’s by no means cavernous. The interior was comfortable and brightly lit. Our server was also the front-of-house guy, so we skipped introductions.
I ordered Chicken Tikka Masala ($19), medium spicy; Garlic Naan ($5.50); Tandoori Roti ($4); and a Mango Lassi ($5.50).
Appearance
Orange! a brighter orange than the dozens of photos I looked at on Google Images. I was heartened to see a bowl of basmati rice the way only Indian restaurants can make it.
Taste and Texture
Because I don’t order tikka masala, I’d forgotten how two-dimensional it can be: In this case, white-meat chicken and sauce.
The medium spice turned out to be barely spice. Some heat would’ve helped because the velvety sauce was considerably sweet.
The bird came in large pieces, which I cut into smaller pieces. It wasn’t dry, exactly, but could’ve been moister. The loose-grained rice was nicely done and lifted up the dish overall. Bonnie cornered the roti; my bowl of naan included several large pieces, far more than I could hope to consume. It was tasty when dipped in the sauce.
The mango lassi — served in an elegant glass and also a vivid orange — was lusciously sweet, if thicker than I prefer. I finished it. The drink is said to be digestive-friendly.
INDIA KING TANDOOR & WINE
The restaurant is set off of Ulmerton Road in a small shopping center, and it required a few turns (and Google Maps) to find. We were the first customers at 5:30 Thursday. The small dining room is outfitted with bright red chairs, white tables and an ornate faux-copper ceiling. Bollywood played on a TV, with the soundtrack playing at medium volume. We sat by a window.
The chef, Sarath, came out to greet us, all smiles. He said with gusto in a lilting Indian accent, “You get the best food.” I ordered Chicken Tika Masala ($18.99), with a 5 (medium) on the spice scale; Garlic Naan ($4.99); and a Mango Lassi ($6.99).
Appearance
Less orange. (A photo of the original serving is up top.) The pieces of chicken were smaller. I saw bits of green pepper, an encouraging sign.
Taste and Texture
This tikka masala was less sweet than the Lajawab’s, and the spice had a creeping heat that grew more intense the more bites I took. The thick mango lassi came in handy for tamping down the spice burn, which never got to be too much. Here were two Indian eateries with vastly different versions of “medium spice.”
The cubed white-meat chicken was tender and, if not exactly juicy, certainly not dry. The peppers added a subtle extra dimension. The rice was nice. The naan was amply garlicked. As we finished our entrees, the server brought us each an oversized thimble of rice pudding, gratis, which proved a welcome mignardise.
And the Winner of the Tikka Masala Tussle Is …
India King Tandoor & Wine.
While I enjoyed both meals, I preferred the less-sweet-more-spicy, smaller-pieces-of-chicken version at India King.
I’ll probably choose another dish next time I hit an Indian restaurant — in about three months.
