Registry Tampa Bay

I’ve always wanted to take Friday Food Fight international, make it global, huge.

Not really. I’d just hoped to do one pitting Tampa Bay against a foreign country. Dream fulfilled when we recently took a 10-day trip to Spain, where we stayed a couple nights in Barcelona and then the rest in the hilly part of a small town called Vall-Llobrega*, about 70 miles northeast.

The plan was to survey the culinary scene in Catalonia, and then see if I could match a dish with one here. Initially, paella seemed the obvious choice. But I did not like paella, at least the stuff in Barcelona. It was during a side trip to a medieval town called Pals that I found my food.

Cod. At a restaurant called La Vila.

Now, cod (bacallà in Catalan)  is common there, but not here. So finding a Tampa Bay competitor took a little effort. Up popped one close by: Bonefish Grill on 4th Street in St. Pete …

I know what you’re thinking. Cod at a medieval town in Spain vs. cod at Bonefish? Hey, I get it. On paper, it’s a grievous mismatch. Let’s find out.

LA VILA

After strolling along hilly cobblestone streets in mid-90s heat, under full sun, and needing shelter and food, we found La Vila. Our party of six did not have a reservation, but after a 15-minute wait and some mild truculence from the staff — shame on us for being walk-ins — they found us a table on a covered patio just before 2 p.m.

The extensive menu was in Catalan and Spanish. Our waiter, a middle-aged fellow, spoke little English, so we had some trouble ordering (and he could barely conceal his exasperation). He didn’t know the word “cod,” so I looked it up on my phone. Bacallà. I was surprised there was only one Bacallà dish (€19) on the menu. Translated: baked cod with crumbed garlic and cherry oil, over potato gratinate.

Appearance

An impressive presentation for a lunch that cost about $22. A healthy portion, too. And I’m predisposed to dishes in cast-iron serving bowls.

Taste and Texture

As a decades-long resident of Florida — the land of grouper and snapper and grocery-store tilapia — I haven’t eaten much cod. This version was a splendid change of pace. It had plenty of flavor, but not in a “fishy” sort of way. The Catalan cod was meatier and oilier — and less flaky — than the Florida Gulf fish I’ve had.

The bed of potatoes was scrumptious, just the right mid-point between creamy and firm. I’ve never knowingly eaten cherry oil (I tasted no cherry), but the velvety red sauce provided a first-rate obbligato.

The portion size was spot-on. I polished it off. Who needs leftovers on a European vacation?

BONEFISH GRILL

First, kudos to Bonefish for serving cod.

We showed up just after 6 p.m. Thursday at the flagship location (which opened in 2000) and had a 10-minute wait. The interior is dark(ish). The design, let’s call it old-school.

We sat at a high-top in the bar area, which was close to capacity and thrummed with robust conversation. Our young server, Gwen, was delightful — energetic, witty and knowledgable. I’d like to have a fraction of her pep.

She gladly helped me improvise a cod dish: Cod Imperial ($25.90), the filet lightly grilled then baked. I ordered the Imperial — a mix of shrimp, scallops and other rich stuff — on the side. Garlic whipped potatoes and asparagus completed the meal.

Appearance

I could’ve done without the Imperial — its ingredients are outside my wheelhouse — but Bonnie wanted to try it. The cod was dusted with some type of spice, I’m not sure what. Stalks of asparagus draped across the potato, adding a smidge of flair.

Taste and Texture

A worthy chunk of cod — similar in flavor and texture to its counterpart across the pond. The spiced exterior provided some zest, but I wonder if adding a bit more to create a crust would be an improvement. In all, I found the density of the cod to be a welcome alternative to the flakier fish common in local restaurants.

I liberally buttered my potatoes, and scarfed ’em up. The asparagus could’ve been firmer to add some crunch, although it wasn’t limp.

And the Winner of Tampa Bay vs. Catalonia Cod Clash Is …

La Vila.

The match was closer than expected. The cod itself was actually comparable between the two places, but La Vila’s unique red sauce and potato gratinate won the day.

As far as service, Bonefish Grill wins — Hands. Down. Gwen was the kind of server who makes the dining experience better.

*About pronouncing Vall-Llobrega:

I could find no clear consensus. I didn’t think to ask a server at a restaurant in town so resorted to online research. I couldn’t find audio, just ph0netics. I’m going with the Spanish version: Bye-Yo-Breh-Gah.

And finally: Another big congrats to Emmitt and Albane on their nuptials. (I presume you’re still married.) We had a blast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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