News of a slow summer for restaurants apparently didn’t reach the beach. Middle Grounds Grill, a large establishment on Treasure Island, was packed last Saturday night. Once home to the popular Robbie’s Pancake House, Middle Grounds opened in 2007 and has maintained a strong reputation.
This week’s edition is another in a series of Spotlight features, where we visit one restaurant, clock the vibe, eat a couple of entrees, and I pick a “winner” between the two.
We arrived precisely at our 6:45 reservation time and joined our dinner companion, Bobby Dillon, who was parked at the bar. We were immediately seated at a four-top in a back dining room, where the conversation volume was lower and provided for easy three-way yapping. During a restroom trip, I spotted an abundance of large parties, suggesting that summer tourism season is faring well. Our server, Michele, was pleasant, unobtrusive and efficient.
We ordered from the specials menu: Fresh Catch: Gulf Grouper, blackened ($50) and a Bone-in Pork Chop ($38). Each came with sides. I got a 3 Daughters Beach Blonde Ale ($8), which came in a 16-ounce can. (I told Michele that I would handle the pouring myself.)
Appearance
Both dishes were served and presented with utmost professionalism. Everything looked enticing. The generous portion of new potatoes that accompanied the pork chop called to me. Michele put the fish in front of Bonnie and the pork in front of me. Gender profiling? Nah. I kid.
Taste and Texture
Grouper Entree: This filet stood out for being more meaty than flaky — it didn’t easily fall apart into smaller pieces. I preferred it to the airier grouper filets that I generally have, which tend to be less flavorful. The blackening was relatively mild, and I would’ve preferred it to be zippier. The rice pilaf beneath the fish was solid, although I only managed to procure a few bites. I had a piece of broccoli — not my fave — and it was … broccoli.
Pork Chop Entree: This was a big ol’ hunk of pork, cooked perfectly medium, tender and juicy with a nice sear. Big enough that we couldn’t quite finish it. I was prescient about the potatoes. These orbs were next-level, with just the right firmness and a light outer crisp. I ate them all. The asparagus stalks more than made the grade.
We were enticed to split a Blueberry Cobbler ($5) with vanilla ice cream ($2.50), and were glad we did. I sneakily made sure mine was the last spoon standing. I am, after all, the (ahem) arbiter.
And the Winner of the Pork Chop vs. Grouper Fresh Catch at Middle Grounds Grill Is …
A tie.
The updated FFF bylaws say that ties are permitted in Spotlight editions.
It was encouraging to see an upscale restaurant on the beach so busy in mid-summer. And Middle Grounds is on the east side of Gulf Boulevard, so no Gulf view.
Of course, I can’t say if other beach establishments were similarly busy on Saturday, but here’s a possible indicator: Bobby Dillon — who used to live here but now resides in California — walked St. Pete Beach that afternoon and said he’d never seen it so crowded.
