In the early 1900s, Mexican cowboys working in southern Texas were partially paid with crappy cuts of beef, including head, entrails (how’s that for an appetizing opener?) and … skirt steak.
They marinated the meat, grilled it over an open fire, sliced it against the grain and wrapped it in flour tortillas. Thus the humble beginnings of the modern fajita (“little strip”). The dish found its way into South Texas restaurants in the 1960s and ’70s. It did not take long for fajitas to expand beyond the region because … when they are good, they are so damn good.
We’re on a 17-day vacation so I took this opportunity to present another Tampa Bay vs. The World edition. Our contestants are: Casa 28 Mexican Grill in St. Pete and Superica in the ATL.
CASA 28 MEXICAN GRILL
The restaurant sits in a small strip mall on 28th Street just north of 22nd Avenue. Given the skull imagery on the windows, I feared a Dio de Los Muertos theme. Such was not the case.
Instead, the interior is a mish-mash of bright colors (mostly orange and red), Mexican-themed art (Frida Kahlo: mandatory) and weird outliers — my favorite being a wall TV showing The Jetsons cartoons, which was a hoot.
We arrived at 7 on a Sunday and sat at a small four-top. A number of families were occupying booths, giving Casa 28 a neighborhood feel. We ordered Mixed Chicken & Steak Fajitas ($19.99). (Free) chips and salsa started us off.
Appearance
The heaping cast-iron pan of fajitas arrived with a respectable sizzle. A side plate contained the customary yellow rice, refried beans, sour cream, lettuce and pico de gallo.
Taste and Texture
The main way to screw up fajitas is for the beef to be tough and/or the chicken to be dry. Our meal did not suffer from either, although I couldn’t taste much in the way of marinade. I mixed the chicken and beef, and crammed as much of the extras as the tortillas would hold. I ate three, while occasionally glimpsing at The Jetsons.
The beans and rice more than made the grade. The tortillas were pleasantly chewy. My only (minor) complaint is that the sour cream, lettuce and pico de gallo came in small portions. I asked for extra pico and sour cream, which cost $1.50 each.
SUPERICA
The orange-striped sign sits next to a rusted bridge. The above photo makes Superica look like a crusty outpost. It’s anything but. A short walk from the Atlanta Beltline, the restaurant — the flagship of an 11-store chain in the Southeast — sits amid a busy area full of eateries, bars and shops. Lots of people wore USA Soccer shirts.
At 6:30 on a Friday, we were greeted with an hour wait, but quickly scored seats at the bar just inside the door. The main dining room featured a giant screen showing concert videos, so a few Hall & Oates tunes leaked into my ears, which was okay by me. Our bartender was a groovy young dude, knowledgeable about the food and drink. We ordered Parilla Mixta ($35), which included Steak Arrachera and Chicken Tejano.
Appearance
Superica didn’t bother with the sizzle. The most noticeable aspect of this elevated presentation was the thick cuts of meat, neatly sliced. A roasted poblano pepper lay next to it.
Taste and Texture
These fajitas were particularly meat-forward. The chicken and especially the beef were next-level quality — full-on tender and juicy. The tortillas, made to order, were warm and hearty.
There were plenty of fresh accouterments (including guacamole) to cram into the tortillas. I sliced pieces of pepper to add to the pile, although some grilled onions and peppers would’ve been preferable. I devoured a couple of the messy delights.
And the Winner of the Tampa Bay vs. Atlanta Fajitas Flare-Up Is …
Casa 28.
I wrestled with his decision.
Superica’s ingredients were superior, its take more modern, but we paid for it to the tune of thirty-five bucks. Casa 28 took a more traditional approach, and its inclusion of the standard onions and peppers was probably the deciding factor.
Casa 28’s homey-yet-funky vibe made me relax, while Superica’s party-style energy got me pumped. At the bar, we got into a conversation with a young couple who lived locally, but had spent a month in St. Petersburg — during the summer. They had nothing but good things to say.
All told, we had impressive meals at both places, and different types of fun at each.
