Vegan or vegetarian? I chose the latter because I’m neither. And vegetarian suggests a wider flavor spectrum for an omnivore such as myself.

I do, however, admire the plant-based diet and the people who keep it. But I can’t join up, if for no other reason than this weekly gig. An all-veggie Friday Food Fight? Non-starter.

It’s my contention that one of the best, if not the best, cuisines for plant-based dishes is Indian. I could be wrong.

My two contestants are Cafe Masala in St. Pete and India’s Grill in Tampa. For the featured dish I chose Kadai Paneer, a top-of-menu entree at both places. It includes paneer, an Indian cheese, and vegetables in a sauce.

CAFE MASALA

Cafe Masala is located in a large shopping center in far northeast St. Pete. It is quite literally a mom-and-pop restaurant. I’ve eaten there a few times and have never seen anyone other than Madu and her husband Ray working there. The Indian couple are quite literally the nicest restaurauters I’ve ever dined with.

The small, basic interior has a homey feel. I’ve never seen Cafe Masala crowded. At 7:15 Saturday night, it was just us and another couple.

I ordered Kadai Paneer ($18) and a King Fisher beer ($6). To up the ante into vegan, Bonnie got Mixed Vegetable Curry ($17). And to close the plant-centric circle, we chose Vegetable Somosas ($8) as a starter.

A robot named Lychee — she introduced herself — brought our meals from the kitchen. Madu served us. It was the first time a robot had delivered my food.

Appearance

The hum of Lychee’s emergence from the back was accompanied by an aroma — an aroma resulting from a seraphic mixture of spices that thoroughly seduced my olfaction. The bowls were small — Cafe Masala is not big on large portions — with the cubes of cheese prominent. A generous portion of basmati rice made the spread all the more inviting.

Texture and Taste

Let’s start with the paneer, which Cafe Masala makes in-house. It’s cubed like tofu, but has a firmer feel and no squishy texture. It’s a bland cheese but is pleasingly smooth and and has a hint of sweetness. It was the most dominant part of the dish by far. I would’ve liked a bit more pepper, onion and tomato.

The sauce tasted as sublime as it smelled. I had asked Madu to set the spicy-heat gauge between mild and medium but wish I dialed it up to medium. Bonnie’s medium had just right kick.

The Somosas reminded me of a empanadas sans the oiliness. The pastry was flaky and the innards consisted of a subtle blend of potatoes and peas.

We finished everything Lychee brought out.

INDIA’S GRILL

This small place is located just east of Dale Mabry, under the shadow of a billboard plastered with the smiling faces of Catania & Catania. The interior was low-lit, with Indian signifiers like a smiling Buddha statue draped in beaded necklaces. The ceiling consisted of bronze-colored, ornately designed squares. Bollywood played on the wall TV. The place could’ve been a broom closet in the Taj Mahal.

By 8, India’s Grill was bustling, near full occupancy. Whereas Cafe Masala was a cocoon of calm, India’s Grill was congested and harried. Only one server worked the dining room, but Rupesh, a young Indian fellow with an accent to match, maintained his smile.

I ordered my Kadai Paneer ($14.99) medium-spicey, and got a Mango Lassi ($4.99) to drink. Bonnie went with Kadai Chicken ($16.99). As an appetizer, we chose Onion Bhaji ($5.99) and added Garlic Naan ($4.99).

Appearance

Everything was bigger than at Cafe Masala — the main dish, the squares of paneer and vegetables within the main dish, the bowl of rice. The sauce looked browner and heavier. The hefty plate of Onion Bhaji and large discs of naan — plus two bowls of dipping sauces — made us wonder if we had over-ordered. But it was 8:15, past my dinner time, and I was a hungry fellow.

Texture and Taste

The paneer, house-made, tasted virtually the same as Cafe Masala’s. The sauce had a gravy-like texture. Medium-spice provided an ideal level of heat that accentuated the flavors.

The onions and peppers, drowning in heavy sauce, maintained a modicum of crunch.

The Onion Bhaji was a good choice. Its batter, made from chickpeas, did not smother the sweet onion inside.

The sauces were interesting. I found the brown tamarind stuff overbearing, too fruity. But the green sauce — a combination of yogurt, cilantro and a hint of mint — delivered a pleasant tang that worked with with both starters.

The yogurt-based mango lassi — with a milkshake-ish texture — was sweet and lovely but a bit too rich for the food. I savored it at the end.

We brought a meal-sized portion of food home. It made for a good lunch the next day.

And the Winner of the Indian Veggie Battle Is …

Cafe Masala.

Ultimately, I chose the subtle complexity of Cafe Masala’s Kadai Panner over the bigger-and-bolder of India’s Grill.

The relaxed atmosphere of the St. Pete spot, and the gentle charisma of the owners, further tilted my decision.

The Tampa restaurant won on appetizers. And kudos to the price. Our tab was $51.55, and Bonnie added a ten-buck tip. That’s a lot of grub for the money.

A closing note: I didn’t miss the chicken. That’s my default protein in most ethnic restaurants, and I plan on dropping it. I took a bite of Bonnie’s bird at India’s Grill. It was chewy and chalky and all but flavorless. The paneer was far, far better.

I’m glad I went veggie.

Give it a try.