Lamb is the traditional meat used in shish kebab, but, being lamb-averse, I went with beef.

I’ve long been a fan of roasted meat on skewers, so I sought out Turkish/Mediterranean/Middle Eastern eateries for the authentic item.

I chose Istanbul Mediterranean Grill & Market in North Tampa, which I’d not previously heard of, and Baba Restaurant in St. Pete’s Grand Central District, where I’ve eaten a few times but never had their shish kebab.

ISTANBUL MEDITERRANEAN GRILL & MARKET

IMG&M is situated on a stretch of Florida Avenue, just south of Busch Boulevard, that includes an eclectic array of businesses, among them a smoke shop, a check-cashing joint, a lumber store, a Bitcoin ATM, and a strip club called Chics Playhouse.

We arrived on Monday just before 2:30 under a blue sky with pillowy clouds. The eatery’s interior radiated with natural light. Tables were spaced well apart, and we sat at a four-top by one of the large, arched windows facing Florida Avenue. Piano jazz played softly on the sound system — an odd choice for a decidedly Turkish establishment, but a welcome one.

Our waiter spoke rudimentary, Turkish-accented English, some of which we could not understand. But whatever small problem that caused he compensated for with his eager-to-serve smiles. I ordered a Beef Shish Kebab Platter ($22) with rice, and a Turkish soda called Frutti Extra, mandarin-flavored ($3).

Our server immediately brought us a basket containing two small, round, fresh-from-the-oven loaves of bread. No charge.

Appearance

A massive meal. Eight large chunks of beef (sans skewers) were topped with a grilled tomato and  jalapeño pepper. The meat was accompanied by a generous portion of white rice pilaf, an enticing pile of pickled red cabbage and a clump of chopped, plain iceberg lettuce I had no idea what to do with.

Texture and Taste

The beef’s flavor was enhanced by a marinade that was subtle but distinctive. The meat had a heavy grain, which gave my jaws a workout. Each piece required quite a few chews, so I started cutting them smaller. This obligatory technique required slow eating, which made the portion seem that much larger.

The pickled cabbage added a piquancy that further livened up the flavor. A bowl of white rice could’ve been dull, but this portion had tiny noodles interspersed, enriching the taste. The white sauce was more liquid, tangy — and better — than the thick tzatziki I’ve had in other Greek/Mediterranean places.

I made respectable progress on my Beef Shish Kebab platter, but still took half the beef and some of the sides home.

BABA RESTAURANT

Baba bills its food as “Greek and Lebanese with an American twist,” with, let me add, an upscale bent.

The large indoor/outdoor space is surrounded by trees and shrubs, its only street signifier a sign with “BABA” in vertical letters on the corner of Central Avenue and 27th Street.

At 5:30 Wednesday we walked through the gate that opened to a vast patio in two covered sections. Baba has a handsome indoor dining room and bar, but we opted to sit on the patio — because the weather was perfect, 72 degrees according to my phone, 75 according to my body.

Our server, Madison, was relaxed, engaging and knowledgeable — and had a keen sense of when to stop by to check on us.

We ordered the Shish Kebab ($28, cooked medium), plus a couple of spreads — Muhammara and Melitzanosalata (both $5) — with Bread ($4). I asked for a ginger ale ($3) with minimal ice.

Appearance

Baba’s shish kebab presentation provided a stark contrast to Istanbul Mediterranean Grill’s. There was a lot less on the plate — five pieces of beef on a stylish skewer, with a small side of sumac onions and a bowl of white sauce.

Texture and Taste

The Melitzanosalata (a Greek eggplant dip, and probably the most unpronouncable food I’ve ever ordered) was lush and oily in a good way. It was an ideal complement to the Muhammara, a dip that originated in Syria whose main ingredients are roasted red pepper and walnuts. The spread had a tangy flavor and an agreeable crunch courtesy of the chopped nuts. Even better was the bread — house-made pita that was soft, puffy, and thicker than most.

We cast aside concerns about filling up before the main event. The starters were that good. (And we needn’t have worried.)

With our first bites of the steak, Bonnie and I shared nods and mmm-mmm‘s. Tender, juicy and perfectly cooked. Madison told us that the meat was rubbed with a house-made “schug” sauce, which added a tinge of spicy heat. The sharp-flavored sumac onions were a winning complement, but there was not enough of them, so I asked for another portion, which Madison quickly brought.

The beef was so good on its own that we made little use of the creamy tzadziki.

This plate could’ve used a more substantial side dish. My kingdom for some rice — but Baba doesn’t serve rice. Had I do do it over, I would’ve requested the spreads-and-bread to be served with the shish kebab.

We easily finished the entree, relishing every bite.

And the Winner of the Shish Kebab Showdown Is …

Baba.

This was a matchup of two sharply different restaurants — one a basic ethnic eatery in a hardscrabble part of town, the other a fine-dining establishment in a hip section of downtown. I could draw comparisons about price and value, but I try to avoid that in this space.

The bottom line: This contest features beef shish kebabs, and Baba’s — while a smaller portion and more expensive — was notably better. Plus the spread and the pita helped bolster Baba’s case.