Fifty-two weeks, probably a couple hundred dishes, and it feels like I still haven’t scratched the surface.

But it’s time for a look back. Here’s a dozen meals that stood out in 2023. Make that a baker’s dozen. I’ll begin with the basics, then transition into some specific highlights.

Best Overall Meal

Bayshore Mediterranean Grill

 

This no-frills Turkish restaurant in Tampa’s Ballast Point neighborhood issued a three-course gem that was as colorful as it was delicious. We began with a big, round loaf of lavash bread, which came puffed up, then deflated in front of us. We had a few preliminary nibbles, then when our appetizer came we tore off chunks and dipped them into the sumptuous quartet of spreads.

Of the 30 kebabs on order, we went basic with Chicken Shish Kebab: 10 seasoned pieces (unskewered) that worked best when combined with their partners on the plate: white rice, bulgur, red cabbage, and salad. Some dill pickles left over from the appetizer added extra zing.

Best Appetizer

Prosciutto Melone at The Brother Trattoria

Hefty pieces of prosciutto wrapped around thick slices of perfectly ripe cantelope shared a plate with a bulb of burrata cheese. And a balsamic reduction for good measure. A cornucopia of texture and taste — creamy, crunchy, salty, sweet, tangy. Bites worthy of the gods. 

Best Entree

Fresh Catch: Yellowedge Grouper at Middle Grounds Grill

This day-boat grouper, expertly blackened, was moist and meaty, with more flavor than most white fish I’ve had. Accompanied by garlic mashed potatoes and beautifully cooked green beans, it was a masterful meal. The portion size was perfect. I didn’t go wanting, but there was nothing to take home.

Best Dessert

Cannoli at Sorrento Sweets

The small desserteria in downtown St. Pete specializes in Italian treats. The two cannoli carried a stronger-than-usual ricotta flavor, mixing tart with sweet. The crust was crispier than I’m accustomed to but didn’t crackle and fall apart.

Best Breakfast

Eggs Benedict at The Frog Pond

I’m more of an omelet man, but this meeting of downy poached eggs with runny yoke, smokey(ish) Canadian bacon and lemon-tinged Hollandaise sauce on an English muffin was outstanding.

Best Lunch

A Couple Slices of Joey Brooklyn’s Pizza

I grew up an hour outside Manhattan, so consider myself something of a New York pizza-eating expert. And Joey Brooklyn’s, a hole-in-the-wall on the northern side of the Jannus Landing block in downtown St. Pete, scored big on all counts: thin, foldable, appropriately greasy, with the cheese and red sauce expertly melded. And my two slices came out hot-hot.

Best Cuban Meal That Was Actually Two Meals

Cuban Roast Pork with Black Beans and Yellow Rice at Pipo’s

This enormous helping, which all but spilled over the plate, cost just $6.95. What?! But that wasn’t the half of it. Pipo’s makes the best version of this Cuban staple that I’ve ever tasted: citrusy pork, but not overbearing; flavorful beans over equally flavorful yellow rice. Only the most robust eaters could knock this dish out in one sitting. Make sure and box up the remainder for another helping at home.

Best Shellfish Dish for a Guy Who’s Not Inclined Toward Shellfish

Lobster Rolls at West Street Cafe, Bar Harbor, Maine and Mason’s Famous Lobster Rolls, St. Pete

A long-time lobster abstainer, I had my first ever rolls this year. I was a bit trepidatious, but ended up really liking them. As promised, both of these places served the best parts of the lobster — free of all that cracking, pulling and prying — stuffed into a bun. West Street Cafe in Maine got the nod in that week’s column, but I was surprised how well Mason’s Famous stacked up.

Best Wings for a Guy Who’s Not Inclined Toward Wings

Tiki Docks, St. Pete location

These plump jumbos, sublimely juicy and slathered in Hawaiian BBQ sauce, had a distinctive char and just-off-the-grill flavor that restaurants rarely achieve. 

Best Mediterranean Vegetarian

Falafel at Mio’s Grill & Cafe

While a darker brown than most falafels I’ve eaten, the smallish nuggets at Mio’s had vibrant green innards with a mild flavor that let the taste of the chickpeas shine through. And they didn’t crumble.

Best So-Very-French Dish

Coq au Vin, The Left Bank Bistro

Not by accident did I eat this dish on July 14, Bastille Day. Artfully presented with a bone sticking upward, this coq au vin offered a lovely combination of flavors — fall-off-the-bone chicken on a bed of fingerling potatoes lying in a pool of rich brown sauce. Magnifique.

Best Healthy Snack That Eats Like a Meal

Avocado Toast at Flatbread & Butter and Karma Eatery

I had this vegan staple at two boho-leaning places just north of downtown St. Pete. Their versions were so different that I had to include both. Karma’s was more basic — the bright green spread flecked with seasoning. FB&B’s avocado was decorated with pickled onions, heirloom tomatoes and an array of seeds. Both were terrific. I had an egg with each, thus ruining my short-lived vegan cred.

Best Fancy Cocktail in a Fancy Bar

The Manhattan at CW’s Gin Joint

My Manhattan project, a brief diversion from Bud Light, turned out delightful. With friends Sandy and Brendan, we entered this dark cocktail emporium in downtown Tampa at 5 p.m. with the aid of a doorman. The knowledgeable bartender instructed us on the finer points of the classic cocktail as he concocted a louche brown nectar that was only slightly sweet, with an appealing bite that never crossed over into harsh. I can’t recall a better happy hour.

Bonus Category: Best Art on a Bun

Ford’s Garage

The picture says it all.

Here’s to a happy and healthy, peaceful and productive, etc. etc., 2024.