Prior to this week, my experience with charcuterie and antipasti had largely been relegated to people’s homes. I’d never ordered a board of assorted meats, cheeses and acoutrements at a restaurant, although I must’ve poached a morsel or two from platters at the table.
The difference between charcuterie and antipasti? Not much. Charcuterie is French, antipasti Italian. Both rely heavily on cured meats. My online research showed that charcuterie focuses more on the meats, while antipasti tends to have more variety, with equal emphasis on meat and cheese, plus olives, pickled vegetables and other savory items. Purists, feel free to nitpick away.
Near as I can tell, however, charcuterie and antipasti are pretty much interchangeable in American restaurants. It’s up to the chefs what they include.
Due to Holiday travel, I decided on another edition of Tampa Bay vs. The World:
The Left Bank Bistro is a French restaurant in St. Pete; The Expat, located in Athens, Ga., is a bistro with an Italian focus.
THE LEFT BANK BISTRO
Established in 2019, The Left Bank is situated in a converted old house on MLK Street a mile north of downtown.
On a Saturday in mid-December at 6:30, our party of five was seated at table in the corner with banquettes. A cozy spot. On the other side of a wall, our friend David Downing performed with his jazz(ish) trio. We could hear the group play Holiday songs, but the music didn’t impede our lively conversation.
I ordered the Fromage & Charcuterie Block ($38) for the table. We each got our own entrees.
Appearance
Truthfully, I was a little underwhelmed. Where was the board, for starters? Instead, the meats, cheeses, bread and grapes came arrayed on a plate that I found rather small. A mini-bowl of honey sat nearby. I’m not much interested in honey. Too sticky.
Being a charcuterie novice, I asked our server to name each item. He gladly obliged, while I scribbled notes in the dimness.
Texture and Taste
The charcuterie plate provided a solid starter for a group of five. We ate and discussed the merits of each offering, but I didn’t take notes so don’t remember which ones got the best grades. Besides, mine is the only opinion that counts.
Of the meats, the sopresetta and chorizo were appropriately bold-flavored and chewy. But the most inventive pieces on the plate — house-made duck prosciutto — were too fatty for my liking. Of the cheeses, the brie was a standout, and the dill havarti and semi-soft truffle cheese weren’t far behind. The buttermilk bleu proved too sharp.
Of the breads, the toast points were extra-crunchy, and the thin, crackly pieces of lavash weren’t terribly spreadable.
THE EXPAT
The Expat is a hot ticket in Athens, especially during the Holidays, so I made a reservation several days in advance for 5 p.m. on the Saturday before Christmas. Bonnie and I showed up right on time.
The restaurant occupies a converted house in the hip Five Points section of town, less than a mile from the University of Georgia campus.
The placed was festooned, inside and out, with Christmas decorations — so much that interior had a muted red glow. The cheerful staff showed us to a two-top in a dining room outfitted with a lavish Christmas tree, stockings and assorted lights. One wall appeared to be covered in red-and-white wrapping paper.
We ordered the Antipasti Board ($35) to start, and Tagliatelle ($25) to split. I got a locally brewed Classic City Lager ($6).
Appearance
Ah, there’s my board — made of wood. My eyes were drawn to the queue of goodies running diagonally down the middle — assorted olives, pickles, pickled okrah, skinless almonds and a helping of whole-grain mustard. In all, a fetching presentation with a festive air.
Texture and Taste
This antipasti board had some delicious stuff on it. We enjoyed mixing and matching items to place on the slices of crispy ciabatta. The presentation included small jars of honey and strawberry jam, the latter being a real enhancer.
My combo of pimento cheese and Calabrese salami topped with jam was terrific. Bonnie’s blend of Drunken Goat cheese, prosciutto and honey was another winner. And on it went. In between creations, I nibbled on the nuts, pickles and olives. Bonnie, not so much.
This antipasti mixed splendid flavors with the kind of fun you hope to get from a dish like this. Knowing that we had an entree coming, we left some to take home to family.
And the Winner of the Tampa Bay vs. Athens, GA Charcuterie vs. Antipasti Altercation Is …
The Expat.
Its version was more substantial, with more choices, more stuff that wasn’t meat or cheese, more spreads. And more wood.
In other matters: A belated Happy New Year to all! And for all of you embarking on dry January, I wish you the best of luck. May you make it to the end.