Unless you’ve been clubbed by a shillelagh and rendered comatose, you’re no doubt aware that St. Patrick’s Day is Monday. So to recognize the holiday, Friday Food Fight is featuring corned beef and cabbage. But that’s only because we’re in America.
You’ll rarely find corned beef and cabbage on the Emerald Isle. The dish originated in the U.S. in the late 19th Century as Irish immigrants substituted corned beef for their traditional meat of choice, bacon, which was more expensive.
So it is with respect and affection to the Irish-Irish that we showcase two Irish-American restaurants in a clash over a definitively American dish. Corned beef and cabbage seems to be a love-it-or-leave-it meal. I’ve always loved it, and I keep it so by only eating it once a year. Will I enjoy it twice in one week?
Our contestants are: Mary Margaret’s Olde Irish Tavern in St. Pete and Finley’s Irish Pub & Eatery in Largo.
MARY MARGARET’S OLDE IRISH PUB
Just before 7 on Monday, we battled gale-force winds to make our way to this small pub that’s located catty corner to Williams Park in downtown St. Pete. The narrow space was dark. The handful of barstools were mostly occupied. Women’s cricket played on one TV, women’s padel tennis on the other. Rock music, some of it Irish (think The Pogues), played medium-loud.
We sat at the wall opposite the bar, me on a frayed leather banquette, split in spots to reveal the padding, Bonnie on a barstool, with a two-top between us.
One of the bartenders, a congenial fellow with an American accent, came over to take our order: Corned Beef & Cabbage ($18.95) — which was on the Specials menu for March — and an ale. A ginger ale ($2.95).
Appearance
The meal was well organized on the plate. Curiously, the generous cabbage wedge looked like it had char marks. Baby carrots sat next to potatoes that resembled home fries. The corned beef was shredded. When I’ve had corned beef and cabbage in the past, the meat came in chunks or slices.
Texture and Taste
As anticipated, the corned beef, while flavorful, had a stringy texture that made it drier than I prefer. I dipped a few pieces in a horseradish sauce — not bad, but not my sauce of choice. The cabbage added a little moisture, as did the carrots. The potatoes were more mushy than firm, which I appreciated.
I did some fork work to build bites with all ingredients represented. All told, I enjoyed my meal, but this plate of corned beef and cabbage could’ve used some wetness.
FINLEY’S IRISH PUB & EATERY
FFF’s maiden sojourn to Largo. Finley’s is located in a shopping center on Belcher Road a couple miles west of U.S. 19. We arrived just before 7 on Wednesday under a brilliant azure sky.
It was Trivia Night. And with the pub’s large interior packed to the gills with contestants, it was apparent that Trivia Night is a major deal at Finley’s.
But we came to eat, so chose to sit on the covered patio. Bonnie and I occupied a round, wrought-iron table with pool-style chairs, which meant we got to sit next to each other, which was nice. Our server was hustling. We never got acquainted.
I ordered the Corned Beef & Cabbage ($15.25) and got an ale, a ginger ale ($2.50).
Appearance
An attractive presentation, borderline eye-popping. Several thick slices of corned beef were flanked by two boiled potatoes, a massive wedge of cabbage and some plump slices of carrot.
Texture and Taste
Let’s begin with the headliner. The corned beef was too veined with fat, giving it a rubbery texture that neutered its flavor. I found a few tasty bites, and pushed the rest to the side.
The cabbage was too crisp for my liking. I prefer it to be on the cusp of limp, so I can easily fork-cut it and mix it with the other components.
I buttered up the potatoes, added some salt and ate them with the carrots. That combination made a meal in and of itself.
And the Winner of the Corned Beef and Cabbage Squabble Is …
Mary Margaret’s Olde Irish Pub.
My primary takeaway from our corned beef and cabbage endeavor is that the meal is probably best prepared and eaten at home.
This is where I introduce Dominic, my long-time friend, former neighbor and masterful home chef. For many St. Patrick Days, Bonnie and I joined Dominic and Susan at their home for a corned beef and cabbage feast. Dominic laid out a hearty stew where all the ingredients melded together to provide one sublime bite after another. His corned beef comes in chunks and falls apart easily. The meal is juicy and messy and tender. I eat it past the point of being full, and go to stuffed.
So to sum up: When it comes to corned beef and cabbage, I’m completely spoiled by home-cookin’. I can’t imagine how a restaurant could compete.
Happy St. Paddy’s Day — whether you have corned beef and cabbage or not.