Every now and then you just want a light bite — quick and easy, in a quiet dining room or on a patio, during off hours, just the two of you.
There are myriad appetizers to choose from in these occasions, but one I’ve come to appreciate is bruschetta. Its combination of (usually) diced tomatoes, an Italian cheese, olive oil and a considerable spectrum of other ingredients piled atop small pieces of toast manages to be at once comforting and zingy. And you can eat it with your hands.
Bonnie and I set out on two excursions to have a relaxing light bite of bruschetta — and bruschetta only — in two St. Pete restaurants: Taverna Costale and Beau & Mo’s Italian Steakhouse.
TAVERNA COSTALE
Tuesday, 3:30 p.m. — The downtown St. Pete restaurant’s elegant dining room was understandably empty. Besides, the bruschetta was on the Happy Hour menu (3-6 p.m.) and only available in the bar area.
We could hardly have picked a more beguiling environment. Taverna Costale’s bar is open-air on two sides, one facing Central Avenue. We could’ve sat at a couple of outdoor barstools, but chose a two-top inside, within an arm’s length of the bar. The balmy exterior air took a bit of nip out of the air-conditioned interior. The light was lovely.
We ordered Seasonal Bruschetta ($10), and Bonnie got a Sea Sun Chardonnay ($8). I’m programmed not to drink alcohol on Tuesday at 4 p.m. — it might be 5 o’clock somewhere but it’s not 5 o’clock here — so I opted for plain old non-bubbly water.
Appearance
The restaurant’s seasonal twist on the dish replaces the tomatoes with roasted red peppers. Fluffy ricotta cheese was slathered on the toast. And although the menu didn’t mention it, thin slices of proscuitto draped across the top.
Texture and Taste
This version lived up to the markings of a first-rate bruschetta. First, all of the ingredients were fresh and energetic. Their contrasts stood out — creamy ricotta, lush roasted red peppers, crunchy arugula, salty and potent prosciutto, hints of tart balsamic glaze.
Foremost, the ingredients blended splendidly, complementing each other. For instance, there was just enough prosciutto to add punch without it taking over. The toasted sourdough was on the chewy side.
The two-piece portion was small(ish), it being a Happy-Hour deal. Bonnie kindly left me a little of hers. Taverna Costale’s antipasto turned out to be an ideal mid-afternoon snack. We should’ve gotten two.
BEAU & MO’S ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE
Wednesday, 4:45 p.m. — Bonnie scored a parking spot right in front of this place on 5th Avenue North in Historic Kenwood. We walked from the sunny lot into the dark confines of a Chicago-style hangout circa 1950s, replete with crooners singing old standards on the sound system, the waitstaff clad in all black with ruby-red bowties, and black-and-white photos of starlets from decades past hanging above the booths.
We chose to sit at the far side of the small bar. Beau & Mo’s has a Happy Hour menu (from the 4:30 open to 6), but our chosen antipasto wasn’t on it.
We ordered the four-piece Bruschetta ($20); Bonnie got a Chardonnay, and I stuck with water. Our bartender Mitch was a hoot, and we had some fun chats with him. The entire staff — which at this time of day probably outnumbered the customers — was accomodating and friendly.
Appearance
The dish came out within a few minutes. This was more traditional presentation of bruschetta, with diced tomatoes and a drizzle of balsamic. A coating of goat cheese peered out from under the toppings and atop toasted Italian crostinis.
Texture and Taste
This bruschetta ate tidily, with the toppings held together by olive oil and balsamic glaze. The crostinis were perfect, its outer edges just the right level of crusty. The bread gave way easily to bites, no gnawing necessary.
I’m not a fan of goat cheese — I tilt toward milder types (ricotta, hint hint) — but I was fine with it in combination with tomatoes and onions. This bruschetta had stronger flavors all around than the competition’s. Tart, sweet, salty, puckery. We easily polished off our appetizer. Bonnie, who likes goat cheese, ate her full share.
Even with the chit-chat, we were in and out of Beau & Mo’s in about a half an hour. Next time we’ll make it more of a Happy Hour. In fact, Mitch told us about the new Happy Hour menu. One of the items is a Wagyu Hot Dog for 12 bucks.
The Winner of the Bruschetta Vendetta Is …
Taverna Costale.
The decision, more or less, boiled down to goat cheese (-) and prosciutto (+). A matter of preference. In two afternoons over three days, we experienced two vastly different versions of bruschetta and two very different vibes. We’ve got to start doing light-bite Happy Hours more often.
