When we left Atlanta early Monday morning it was 30 degrees, and upon arriving home we were pleased to see that Tampa Bay was enjoying its own (not that cold) cold snap. As we pulled into the driveway we knew we had to run out and get some soup before the weather warmed up.

We opted for decadent — French Onion.

Onion soups date back to Roman times, but the modern version of French Onion Soup can be traced to the mid-19th Century at a large, open-air market called Les Halles in Paris. Restaurants in the market served the soup with a generous topping of grated cheese. It was known as a peasant food, but also a hangover remedy for the swells who frequented the cabarets into the wee hours.

For this week’s contestants, we chose one French restaurant — Parts of Paris Bistro & Bar in Safety Harbor — and one French-ish eatery, Bacchus Wine Bistro in downtown St. Pete.

Because one cannot live on soup alone, we chose, and split, an entree in each place.

PARTS OF PARIS BISTRO & BAR

There’s something about restaurants on neighborhood streets — streets made of brick. We were charmed as we strolled a block or so to Parts of Paris at 5 p.m. Tuesday. It helped that we wore jackets over our sweaters and I had on my beloved newsboy cap purchased in Scotland.

The restaurant is situated in a restored 1930s bungalow. The ceiling is low, the vibe intimate. The music was divine — recordings of hip jazz ballads with an emphasis on tenor saxophone, played at a perfect medium/low volume.

Due to our early reservation, we had the dining room to ourselves. “By 6:30, we should be busy,” said our server Chris, a personable and knowledgable fellow. “If you like a quiet dinner, you came at a good time.”

Chris quickly brought us out some crusty French bread — and get this: It was free.

Bonnie and I each got a French onion soup ($10) and for an entree we chose Fricassee de Poulet ($24), chicken thighs in a creamy mushroom sauce.

Appearance

Interesting that this version did not have a coating of cheese on top, but rather two pieces of bread. The entree looked heavenly. A helping of mashed potatoes joined the chicken, which was piled with mushrooms, all of it swimming in the alluring sauce.

Texture and Taste

French Onion Soup is almost always delicious, but it can be a chore to eat. It depends on how the cheese behaves. Does it adhere to your spoon? Does it ball up in your mouth like chewing gum?

That wasn’t a problem with this crock. The gruyère Swiss was artfully integrated with pieces of onion and the bread. It could have been as simple as this recipe using a little less cheese. The broth was sumptuous. Chris told us that it was made with a veal stock. (I’m not a veal eater, but made allowances for it being in a soup stock.)

On to the Fricassee de Poulet. I prefer dark meat over white, so this chicken was right in my wheelhouse — moist and firm. I’m not a mushroom man, but, feeling bold, I ate few — then ate some more, and thought, “Maybe I could become a mushroom man.” As for the sauce, well, it tasted as good or better than it looked. Liquid velvet.

BACCHUS WINE BISTRO

On Wednesday at 6:30, as we strolled the block or so to Bacchus, we wore jackets over sweaters, although we probably didn’t need the jackets. I had my hat on.

The bistro was doing a brisk business. We were transfixed by a couple across the room who appeared to be on a first date. The guy talked and talked and talked, gesticulating with his hands, while the woman nodded and nodded and nodded — such that I thought she might have to see a chiropractor in the morning. Ain’t people-watching fun?

Our waiter, Rick, was a lively dude who gave good service. Bonnie and I each got our own French Onion Soup ($12.75) and we added a Steak Flatbread ($29).

Appearance

The soup had the familiar coating of cheese on top, with little bits scallion in the middle. The Steak Flatbread made us salivate. Green chimichuri spilled off the sides. The steak looked perfectly cooked.

There’s hot soup, and then there was this. We tried blowing, considered ice, but waited it out. The cheese misbehaved, clinging to the spoon and balling up — but in the end the soup was satisfying, with a lovely broth and a onion pieces that had a bit of firmness rather than being competely flacid.

On to the Flatbread. Bonnie summed it up thusly: “It’s been a while since we ate something that made us go ‘wow.'”

Wow. The bread was firm but not crusty. Points for that. Sun-dried tomatoes joined the chimichuri (house-made, per Rick) to add a bit of tangy bite. The mozarella was ideally proportioned and arugula provided a touch of crunch. But the steak was the star. Pieces of filet were elegantly tender and flavorful, and the restaurant did not skimp on them.

We couldn’t quite finish so took the three remaining squares home.

And the Winner of the Fracas Over French Onion Soup Is …

Parts of Paris.

But this was definitely a split decision. We preferred PoP’s soup, but Bacchus takes honors on the entree. Bacchus a vibrant energy, but we were thoroughly won over by the rustic quaintness of Parts of Paris.

By the way, if you haven’t been to Safety Harbor lately — we hadn’t — go there. It’s a lovely village with lots of locally owned restaurants. If your coming in from the south, take Bayshore Boulevard off of Gulf-to-Bay and check out the mansions on the left, water to the right.