I’ve never been big on lobster, mostly because of all that cracking, pulling and prying. The few bites I’ve had have fallen well short of wowing me, so I figure — why bother?

Which brings us to lobster rolls, which, to the best of my memory, I’ve never had. But I like the idea of someone else doing the work, and the tastiest and tenderest parts of the lobster (so I’m told) being stuffed inside a bun. So here’s to hoping I have a good experience.

This week’s edition is another in a series of Tampa Bay vs. The World. Bonnie and I are taking a cruise that stops in Bar Harbor, Maine, so it seems an ideal time to feature lobster rolls. Our two contestants are: Mason’s Famous Lobster Rolls in downtown St. Pete and West Street Cafe on the waterfront in Bar Harbor. I ate cold lobster rolls in each.

On paper, it looks like a mismatch. Let’s find out.

MASON’S FAMOUS LOBSTER ROLLS

Founded in Annapolis, Maryland in 2014, this chain has 30 locations, the farthest north being in New Jersey, so thus far the company has stayed away from the lobster-roll hotbed of New England.

The St. Pete franchise, the first in the Tampa Bay area, is located on 1st Avenue North and 5th Street, on a stretch that’s pretty barren.

At around 7 p.m. on a Wednesday, we entered the smallish space, which was bright and clean and featured counter service and a few basic four-tops.

I ordered a Classic Roll combo with coleslaw ($21.50) and a Maine Root Beer ($3.50).

The Mason’s Famous website states emphatically that its lobster rolls are done the Traditional Maine Way, made with crustaceans pulled from the seas off Maine, then immediately cooked at a facility in Saco, Maine.

Appearance

I admit to a bit of sticker shock. The prime lobster meat, flecked with pepper, sat inside a lightly toasted, flat-bottom hot dog roll that was smaller than the price would suggest. I thought: I really hope I like it, or at least don’t hate it; and if I do like it, eat it slowly.

The cup of coleslaw looked as if might be over-mayo’d.

Texture and Taste

Phew. I’m really glad, relieved even, that I liked my first ever lobster roll. I can’t imagine trying to write a Friday Food Fight about a dish I actively dislike.

That said, I enjoyed my maiden lobster roll way more than expected.

The lobster meat was very light on the mayo, so the sandwich wasn’t the least bit soggy. A glaze of lemon butter amplified the flavor, albeit subtly. The lobster chunks were tender and mild — you could argue a bit too mild. The pepper and celery salt were barely detectable, but did their part.

All told, the sandwich’s innards were well balanced, although its flavor was a tad too gentle. (Mind you, I’m not basing these remarks on prior experience.)

The bun was not plagued by the doughiness found in conventional hot dog rolls. Each bite gave way easily. The slaw was first-rate — wet, but balanced out by a sweet-but-not-too sweet flavor and a potent crunchiness.

WEST STREET CAFE

BAH HAHBAH, Maine — 1 p.m. Tuesday, 66 degrees and sunny in a charming New England town. Sorry St. Pete. When it comes to atmosphere, how do you compete with heaven? (In September, at least.)

West Street Cafe was a football field away from where our ship docked, but a local traffic person strongly recommended the place, saying that the food was really good and we “won’t get robbed.”

The sit-down restaurant had loads of natural light. Floor, booths and tables were outfitted in blonde wood, the walls painted light blue. Large plants hung from the walls and ceiling. After a 20-minute wait, which we didn’t mind, our party of five was seated in a booth.

I ordered the Seaside Special ($38): lobster roll, a cup of clam chowder, fries, coleslaw and a slice of blueberry pie. (Just the lobster roll with one side was market-priced at $28.)

Appearance

The plate was crowded with the lobster roll (a shade larger than the competition’s), the two sides and a dill pickle. (See the main photo at top for the full effect.) The roll was appropriately packed with healthy chunks of lobster meat, fresh off the boat (I asked), sitting on a thin bed of lettuce.

Texture and Taste

The chunks of lobster were very lightly mayo’d, and didn’t have the lemon butter glaze that Mason’s Famous’s did. The meat itself was mild, but with a distinct seafood flavor, and a texture that was coarser than the version I had in St. Pete. It was slightly chewy in spots, but I didn’t mind.

The roll had an ideal density and made for effortless bites. The lettuce added a desirable hint of crunchiness. I enjoyed the soup, but can’t say that it was appreciably better than the many versions I’ve had over the years.

The sides, however, were lackluster — the fries over-salted and tough, the slaw crispy but with a nondescript flavor.

The pie. The pie! It was terrific, in large part because it was made with wild Maine blueberries (culled from nearby farms), which are smaller than the ones you find in conventional versions. A scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dollop of whipped cream beautifully complemented the warm slice, which ranked with the best I’ve ever had.

And the Winner of the Lobster Roll Ruckus Is …

West Side Cafe.

Ultimately, this contest was closer than it should’ve been. Mason’s Famous serves a first-rate lobster roll, but in the end West Street Cafe’s had more character, and was fully fresh vs. frozen.

And then there were the lovely New England surroundings.

While it’s unlikely that I’ll be back at West Street Cafe, I will return to Mason’s Famous.

Above all, I’m pleased that my first experience with lobster rolls was a rousing success.