The first night of Hanukkah fell on Christmas this year, but the sacred Jewish holiday has six more days left, so what better opportunity to feature its most recognized traditional food than this week’s FFF?
Latke, pronounced “lot-key,” is a potato pancake fried in oil and seasoned with salt, and maybe some pepper and a bit of garlic. Sometimes onion joins the potato. Think of latke as the anti-fruitcake.
This simple dish symbolizes the miracle of Hannukah, where a small amount of oil lasted for eight days in the Temple. Why potatoes? They were cheap and readily available in Eastern Europe, where the Ashkenazi Jewish custom of eating latkes during Hanukkah originated.
Not many places serve latkes, but I managed to find two in St. Pete: Jo-El’s Kosher Deli and The Nosh Pit, which bills itself as a “Jew-ish” deli.
JO-EL’S KOSHER DELI
Located a block north of 22nd Avenue, Jo-El’s has a warehouse-like exterior that belies the wonders within.
I haven’t had this much fun in a deli in, oh … ever. The place pulsed with joie de vivre. We weren’t in line 30 seconds when a woman approached us and handed me and Bonnie small plastic containers of beef and mushroom soup, which was scrumptious.
“What’s your name?” I asked. “Lana Turner,” she replied with a playful smirk. We had just met Chef Lana. That encounter set the tone for the rest of our visit, a veritable funhouse of witty repartee, singing, clapping, lessons in kosher from Sharon, and a steady stream of samples.
We ordered two latkes ($2 each) — one with onions, one without — with applesauce, a standard side item, and a bowl of that soup ($6), plus a pound of remarkable potato salad ($7.99) to go.
Appearance
A more basic presentation I cannot recall. Two latkes — well-browned, roughly shaped — on a paper plate with a plastic fork, a small container of applesauce on the side.
Texture and Taste
These latkes tasted like … potato pancakes — not that I have much experience with them. They had a hefty crust that took some work to chew through. It gave way to shredded potato that was agreeably firm.
These latkes were flavorful in an inherently plain way. I slightly preferred the one made with onion, although the onion flavor was subtle. The applesauce provided a desirable sweetness. The most popular condiment for latkes is sour cream, but Jo-El’s didn’t serve it to us for reasons having to do with keeping kosher.
THE NOSH PIT
The Nosh Pit was doing a brisk business when we showed up at 2 p.m. last Thursday. While the deli didn’t burst with mirth like Jo-El’s, the counter people were cheery and welcoming. We felt the buoyant mood as soon as we entered.
The compact space has a service island in the middle, and seating on either side. We placed an order of three Latkes ($7.50) and added a sandwich — roast beef on rye ($10, with a side of potato salad) — and a soup ($4.50). We sat at a simple four-top.
Because The Nosh Pit is Jew-ish — and therefore not strictly kosher — we got sour cream with our latkes.
Appearance
These were bigger, thicker and more uniformly round than those at Jo-El’s. Flecks of salt decorated the latkes and the plate. A piece of lettuce added a touch of color.
Texture and Taste
The crust had a modicum of crunch, making it easy to access the shredded potato within. Combined with a mixture of applesauce and sour cream, each bite had a hearty and hefty presence.
The portion was big enough that I could have made this a latke lunch, but I was hankering for that roast beef on rye and New York-style potato salad. The sandwich was terrific, and the sweetish potato salad reminded me of my youth in suburban New York.
And the Winner of the Gotta Lotta Latkes (Hanukkah Edition) Is …
A Split Decision —
The Nosh Pit
gets the nod for the latkes, due mostly to their plumpness and easy eatability.
Jo-El’s Kosher Deli
takes prize for atmosphere.
I can’t imagine a better mood-elevating experience in a deli/market. I’ll be back — with some of my goy friends. And I’m not waiting for Hanukkah season, either.
